One of my go to places for plants is Home Depot. They can have KILLER varieties at great prices! It’s all about knowing what to look for. Here’s my essential checklist to buying plants from Home Depot!

1: Go frequently!

My first tip is to go frequently! Ask one of the Home Depot garden staff what day of the week restocks happen. It usually is the same day every week! Thursdays are the special day in my store!! And honestly, every time we go to Home Depot, I take a quick peek in the houseplant section. While I may not be consistent with anything else in my life, I will check the garden center like clockwork!

2. Picking the best plant

Some of my favorite plants are from Home Depot! The GIANT Monstera  with leaves the size of UFO’s? Home Depot! In fact, my oldest plant is a Staghorn Fern that I found at HD! True story! You can order them online and they’ll ship right to your house!

With so much variety, and often a lot of the same ones (especially on shipment day) how do you find the best plant? I always look for 2 things. Healthy mature leaves, and new leaves unfurling. Healthy mature leaves show the plant has a good established root system. New unfurling leaves mean that the plant isn’t stressed. If it’s putting out new growth, it’s got a happy outlook on the world! Some leaves can have damage from being shipped, that’s normal, if you have the opportunity, just weed through the ones available and pick the one that speaks to your heart! These green Maranta Prayer plants are so beautiful, and when they are super happy they get tiny white flowers!

3. Shopping the right section

Do you know why a Fiddle Leaf Fig can live outside it’s entire life, but one that has lived inside that is moved outside can sunburn like a fleshy human? It’s because it’s leaves are adjusted differently to the conditions! Sometimes you’ll see plants that are in the outdoor section that could easily be houseplants as well. Think Birds of Paradise, Cacti, Succulents, etc. It seems like you should just be able to grab one of those and put it in your house, right?! Wrong. Plants that have leaves that are hardened off and adjusted to outdoor conditions will be super mad in your house where they are getting significantly less light. If you’re on the hunt for houseplants, stick to the houseplant section!

4. Checking the roots

I always check the roots of a plant before I buy it, but I only check the roots on a plant that I am committed to. Meaning, I will pick my fave, and then check the roots on it. To do this GENTLY hold the plant at it’s base and turn it upside down to pull it out of the planter. Healthy roots are light-colored and firm.

5. Appearance: What’s a big deal, and what’s not a big deal

Sometimes you’ll see plants that have large water spots or white haze on the leaves. While it may not be the most attractive thing right out of the gate, water spots can be easily cleaned off with Neem oil. And often the white haze on larger leaves is a pest deterrent that will just wipe right off!

Did you know that you can also buy online and pick up in store!? Even plants!! Homedepot.com has loads of plants that are both in store and ready to ship!! And you can shop on the Home Depot app using image search! Its so fun to find a picture of a plant online and upload it to see if the plant is available at Home Depot!

Moral of the story? Head to your local Home Depot and score some new plant babies!!

The post The Essential Checklist to Buying Plants from Home Depot appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Oh man am I excited for this post!! I love nothing more than a good hack, and this trellis is everything. It’s unique and cool, easy to DIY, and available in store at your local Home Depot, you just need to venture into the fencing section to find it!

Until our renovation of the Merc is finished, my dreams of a yard full of planter boxes overflowing with veggies and flowers is on hold. This year the itch was really bad though, so we came up with this idea of putting the planter boxes right next to the Merc. That way they are out of the way, and I can still garden a little! 

If you need to build raised planter boxes, this post is where you’ll want to start!

Now, let’s talk about the trellis!

We actually did this project before we even started on the renovation for the Merc. We had a couple of months between the time it was ours, and the time our plans were approved, which meant we needed a fun project and the detached garage was perfect!

The thing is though, that I (shamelessly!) never posted a tutorial because by the time the garage makeover was done, we were rocking and rolling with the real renovation and this project got put into the land of lost tutorials.

When I decided to put the raised planter beds up, I knew that it was time to bring this project to light and give it the love it deserves!

Here’s why this project is magic.

• It looks super expensive and custom, like thousands of dollars to have it built to your exact specifications custom. But each panel will cost you less than $100!!
• It will work with a lot of different styles. Farmhouse, eclectic, modern. 
• It uses in store products! Now, I dont know about you but I am ALL OVER projects that have supplies readily available. 

So let’s get into it! 

Supplies:

Fence Panel Trellis
7″ Bolts (4)
Silicone

Tools:

Saw with Metal Cutting Blade
Drill
Level

Step 1:

See that extra length of tube? That thing is going!

Using a saw with a metal blade, carefully cut right along the edge and remove that section.

Dont lose it! We’re using it as a spacer to hold our trellis off of the wall!

Step 2: Drill the Pilot Holes

The  next step is to drill 1/2″ holes through all 4 corners of your panel. We used a piece of scrap wood to space it correctly. Make sure that you are using a drill bit that is made for metal, and wearing safety goggles.

Step 3: Attaching it to the wall

The first thing that you need to know is that when you are attaching something to the outside of your house, you need to know where the critical stuff is. (Like your water main!)  One of our panels was in the general area so we measured it carefully to make sure that we werent hitting it!

Something else to keep in mind is that if you are drilling holes into a building, they need to be weather proofed. I’ll show you how to do that in just a few!

Also, this is a 2 person job

Hold your panel directly against the wall and level it. (We’re not worrying about the spacers yet!)

With the panel flush, drill through the holes in the trellis and into the wall.

Now it’s time to get hanging! Speaking of hanging, does anyone remember Hangin’ with Mr. Cooper? Weird that i just had that flash back, I wonder if it’s online!?

Update: it’s on Amazon!

Ok, back to our trellis.

Depending on the type of material you are drilling into you, we have different bolt options.

When we installed this into our detached garage made out of concrete block, we used 6″ TapCon concrete anchors. They worked amazing and are perfect if that is your material!

When we put them into the Merc, we used these lag bolts. Because we were going through multiple materials, and ultimately the screws are ending up in wood, we used a different type that could happily grab both wood, and the outer layer of stucco.

The 7″ screw length that we used is great for a standard wall. 

Once your holes are drilled, pull the panel off the wall and fill the hole with 100% silicone.

This will weather-proof the hole.

While the silicone is still wet, put the bolt through the holes in your trellis, and add the spacer (the piece you cut off!) to the other side.

With one person holding the panel, and the second person attaching the screws, you should have it installed in no time! Just double check to make sure everything is level before you screw them in tight, and don’t forget to keep your spacers straight!

We started by attaching both of the top screws first, and then the bottom ones!

That’s it!

Your panel is hung and ready to be the perfect home for some lucky plants!

If you are feeling nervous about installing these onto your house, or have a spot for them that isn’t against the wall, you can absolutely install them on the backside of your planter! 

I dont have pictures of this (because obviously we installed them on our walls) but this is how I would do it!

Measure the height of your planter box. Subtract 6″ from the height, this is the spacing you’ll use for your pilot holes on the panel.(It will give you a 3″ cushion on the top and bottom of your planter)

Measure 3″ from the bottom and drill a hole on both sides of trellis. Then measure the distance of your spacing and drill your second set of pilot holes.

Attach the panel to your planter box by drilling through the holes, into the wood of the planter box. Bolts that go through to the inside of the box with a nut on the end would be a great way to secure your panel.

Sort of makes sense? Hopefully!!

If you make this project I WANT TO SEE! Please tag me on Insta! @vintagerevivals!

Fall Update! 

In the spring when we added the raised planter beds and fence panel trellis to the back side of the Merc. I had big big plans for those little gardens, and they did ok. The indeterminate tomatoes worked really well on the trellis!  Well, until the watering drip line accidentally got turned off for an extended period of time…and they got powdery mildew…and we had a record setting heat wave. But other than that?! Things went great!!

I needed to replant them for the fall and get some greenery happening again. I got sick of feeling sad pangs every time I walked into my back door . The first thing I did (per the usual) was head to Home Depot for inspiration! I needed a few more bags of potting soil (the Vigoro blue bag is ideal for raised planters!) and of course plants!

While I was there I couldnt scoop up enough gorgeous Vigoro plants. After looking at plants that were ⅞ of the way dead these looked like they came from the garden of Eden!!  I got a bunch of neon green sweet potato vines (Ipomoea), an Aptenia (a succulent-like plant with dime size hot pink flowers that look like fireworks) and an Armeria that has grass-like leaves and round pom pom flowers! I also planted some cool weather veggies like lettuce, chard, and Kale. I’ve also been itching for a fig tree after visiting Russell the adobe mason’s house and couldnt resist grabbing one.

And now!? PURE HAPPINESS!! Everything is thriving and it brings me so much joy to see the little pink Aptenia flowers open and close every day!! 

I love that Home Depot always has different varieties of plants depending on the season and what will thrive!!

[mv_create title=”DIY Fence Panel Trellis” key=”22″ thumbnail=”https://vintagerevivals.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Modern-Black-Trellis-Planter-DIY-1.jpg” type=”diy”] 

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I’m back with another fun DIY or Buy project!! DIY or Buy is exactly how it sounds! I am sharing a step by step tutorial for how to DIY, and for those that would rather buy, we have them for sale in our shop! Cue Miley, this is literally the best of both worlds!

The obsession with plant propagating is hitting a fever pitch around here and over on Happy Happy Houseplant. It is such a fun (and free!) way to see your plants in a whole new way. Our last DIY or Buy was such a hit that we decided to design another one!

Friends meet the Modern Arch Propagation Planter

This thing has been 6 months in the making, and after a lot of trial and error, we are SO EXCITED to be launching it today!! It’s a little like giving birth when you put so much time and energy into developing a product!

If you prefer to purchase some propagation planters, you can do so here!

If you are here for the DIY tutorial keep reading! THIS TUTORIAL IS FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY

What is Propagating?

Propagating is the process of taking a cutting from a plant, putting it in water or soil and over time new roots grow, thus creating a new plant! Picture taking a finger, cutting it off, placing it in a cup of water and growing a new human. I was getting some high society status points by using the word thus, but then totally killed it by talking about human fingers. Plants are cool, I am not.

A lot of propagation starts out by rooting the cutting in water. When the roots have grown a couple of inches, then you transfer it to soil. So having a clear container to see the roots can be super important. There are all different types of propagation depending on the type of plant, if you want to know more about your favorite plants and how to propagate them you can check that out here!

Modern Arch Propagation Planter Tutorial

You’ll need:

Supplies:

1/2″ Plywood
Template 
Test Tube (the hole in the pattern is for a 1 1/2″ test tube but can be easily adjusted to fit any size!)
Screws

Tools:

Jigsaw
Table Saw or Router
Drill
Level

Step 1: Cut Your Channel

The first step for this project is to cut the channel that holds the “shelf” in place. This is really easy to do with a table saw, but can also be done with a router.

Measure the exact thickness of your plywood, and by exact I mean exact. The shelf is held in place by fitting tightly in this channel, so it needs to be the same thickness as the wood.

Plywood can vary slightly, that’s why you’ll want to measure what you’ve got.

Set your blade height so that it cuts through just over 1/2 of the plywood depth.

With the blade height set, start running your board through (make sure to set your fence far enough back that you have enough space on both sides of your channel for the design!)

After each pass, move the fence a little further away and run it through again. Repeat this until you have the correct channel width cut.

Check to make sure that the wood fits verrrrry snuggly in the channel.

Step 2: Trace The Pattern

First, you’ll need to print off the template. It’s sized for standard letter paper and doesnt need to be adjusted. Download the file here!

Cut it out with a razor blade.

Line the pattern up so that the solid horizontal line is laying over the channel that you cut and trace it.

Clearly mark the spaces that are going to be removed, it’s easy to get confused when you are cutting!

Step 3: Cut the Pattern Out

Ready to get jiggy wit it? Pull our your jig saw and lets make this happen!

Start by drilling holes in the sections that are going to be removed. This gives your saw blade a starting point!

Starting at the center of your pattern (this is important!) Cut along the lines. DO NOT CUT THROUGH YOUR CHANNEL!

When all of the inner sections are removed, cut along the outer marks.

You’ll probably need to sand the edges to smooth out any unevenness. If the spaces inside the arch need to be smoothed, you can use a nail file or a loose piece of sandpaper.

Step 4: Drill Screw Holes

Believe me when I say that we tried every.single.way.imaginable to hang these. After lots of trial and error we decided that the best and easiest way was to assemble them on the wall.

Drill 2 holes, on either side of your channel. Use a small 1/4″ bit to drill all the way through, and a larger 5/8″ bit to create a groove that the screw head will sit tucked into. This larger divot is super important because it makes it so that your shelf sits flush against the back of the channel.

Step 5: Cut out the Shelf

The most important part of this step is two part. First, make sure that the hole you cut is slightly bigger than your test tube. Not a lot, but enough that there is some wiggle room. When the plywood gets wet, it will expand and be very hard to remove the tube. The extra space will fix that! 

The next most important part is that you cut the hole in 2 directions.

Line up your hole saw and drill halfway through the wood. Then take it out and flip the wood over.

Drill back through the other direction. This prevents the veneer of the plywood from blowing out. See the blow out on the right hole in the pic below? We dont want that to happen!

Cut out the perimeter and… ta da!

Here are a few things to note.

Like I mentioned above, hanging this in an easy, secure way was our biggest challenge.

Originally we cut keyholes in the back and glued the shelf in place but getting the screws spaced perfectly on the wall (there was literally no room for error) was an absolute nightmare. Like fill 20 holes and repaint because it was so unsalvageable.

I did not want to do that to you guys.

So back to the drawing board we went. The best way that we found to attach them was to screw the back into place first. If you are hanging more than one, I highly recommend drawing a level line on the wall first.

Step 7: Hanging Your Planters

Draw a light level line on the wall using pencil (or use a laser level if you have one!)

Line the holes up on the line so that you can see through them like a little window. 

Check to make sure the side is level vertically and that the spacing between planters (if you are hanging more than one!) is right.

Then screw into the drywall.

Add the shelf by pressing it firmly into place. It’s better if you start in on one side as opposed to putting it all in at the same time!

For the planters to be remove-able, the shelf needs to come off (so you can take the screws out) The channel if cut correctly, is tight enough to firmly hold it in place with a full test tube and cuttings. If you prefer to glue it, that is fine with me, just remember that you wont be able to move it once the glue dries!

Oh, and did I mention that the planters are reversible!?

You can hang them either way, and even alternate directions like I did in my office!

I cant wait to see these in your house! If you are interested in buying some, head to the shop before they are gone!

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Dude. I get it!! Taking care of plants the way that they want to be taken care of can be intense- especially if you are raising Treenagers like a Fiddle Leaf Fig. They can be SO dramatic!

Today I’m going to teach you all about Bottom Watering, it’s great for people who have a big question mark when it comes to the right way to water their plants. Bottom Watering is sort of like Free Range Parenting. You let the plant decide how much it needs and how it wants to handle it.

What is Bottom Watering?

Bottom watering is a technique where you place your potted plant in a tub or sink that has a few inches water in it. The drainage holes in your planter allow the water to absorb into the soil over a period of time without over-saturating it.

The most important think to know when choosing bottom watering is that your planter MUST have at least 1 drainage hole! If it doesn’t, then you are going to have a hard time getting water into the planter my friend.

How to Bottom Water Your Plants

Step 1: Fill your sink or container with enough water that it will reach the bottom of the soil in your planter. 

If you planter is filled with just soil, then you are good at any water level. If you’ve got drainage rocks at the bottom of your planter, the water level needs to be higher than the rocks so that it can reach the soil. Keep in mind that differnt types of soil will absorb the water differently. If you are using a cactus soil that has a lot of rock and pearlite in it it’s not going to absorb water as well as something that has sphagnum moss and bark. Its kind of like the difference in absorption between a normal piece of paper and a towel. Make sense?

Make sure that you’ve got enough water in your sink or container that the plant will be able to soak in all it wants. If you dont put enough water in the container then you’ll under water the plant.

Step 2: Place your plants in the water! If you are still using a grow pot (the container that the plant came in) and the soil is very dried out it might start floating. Make sure that it’s sitting straight in the water before you leave it alone. I’m just telling you this because I *may* have put a plant with very dry soil that was still in it’s grow pot in my sink to water and it floated and tipped over and I didn’t know. It was a mess to clean up. So just a heads up on that!!

Step 3: Let the plants sit in their bath for about 10 minutes before you check on them. You’ll know that they are ready to come out when the soil is moist all the way to the top.

Tip: Sometimes the very tip top of the soil doesn’t get wet, and that’s ok. I top it off with water right before I pull it out.

Step 4: Drain the water out of your sink and let the plants hang out for a few minutes to drain.

That’s it!! I’ve been bottom watering almost all of my plants and they are so happy!!

What size plants can I bottom water?

Bottom Watering works best on small to medium sized plants that are easily moved. If they are too heavy to lift, or too tall once they are in your sink, it’s probably not the best technique.

A Few More Tips:

Pool Occupancy

Don’t overcrowd your plants. It can damage the stalks and leaves. The number you’ve got in the sink will also change the amount of water that you’ll need!

Be extra careful with plants that have easy-to-break stalks and leaves. For example, my Swedish Ivy stalks break when they are bent too far so I always make sure that it’s not getting any undue pressure on them.

Add your Vitamins

If you are giving your plant food, bottom watering is a great way to do that! Just add the food to your water (just make sure it doesnt stain your sink!)

Watch the time

Overwatering happens when plants are watered too frequently, or sit in water too long. You want your plant to sit in the water long enough to absorb enough but not too long that it causes a problem. Just keep an eye on it, you’ll find the perfect time based on the size of the planter and the soil type!

[mv_create title=”The Essential Houseplant Master List ” key=”2″ type=”list” layout=”circles”]

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If you want screaming success with your fiddle leaf fig, read on my friend! This guide is sure to give you all the info you need to see your indoor fiddle leaf fig THRIVE!

Here’s What You’ll Learn in this Post:

• Fiddle Leaf Figs LOVE bright indirect light. The more the better!.
• Deeply water your fig tree when the top 1/4 of soil is dry.
• Fiddle Leaf Figs are prone to root rot, so a proper watering technique is crucial
• Browning leaves can mean a number of things, diagnose yours with the pictures in this post!
• Control the size of the fiddle leaf fig with pruning.
• The best fertilizer for lush giant leaves

If you are new to the game and this post convinces you that you can in fact keep a fiddle alive, I’ve got some great shopping tips at the end!

Getting to Know the Fiddle Leaf Fig

Speak The Lingo

This plant is most commonly referred to by its common name, the Fiddle Leaf Fig. It’s technical name is Ficus lyrata, so sometimes it’s grouped into the ficus category. People also shorten it to Fiddle, or Fiddle Leaf, but don’t simply call it a fig, or do-and risk looking like an amateur.

Temperament: Treenager

Fiddle Leaf Figs fit into a category I like to call a Treenager. They can be awesome and happy and fill a room with joy, but they can also throw a fit when the slightest breeze that they don’t want touches them.

Approach their care the way you would a teenager and everything will be juuuuust fine. With the right know-how, you can easily keep a fiddle leaf fig thriving in your home.

Anatomy of a Fiddle Leaf Fig

Fiddle Leaf Fig Care

Watering Your Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant

How often should I water?

Because fiddles are so prone to root rot how you water is almost more important than anything else. Constantly wet roots are not your friend. This means that a little bit of water every day is a big fat NO! Check your soil with these tips and you’ll be absolutely perfect!

Checking your soil

Check your soil for moisture by sticking your finger 2 inches into the dirt. There are also tools like a moisture meter that you can buy that will tell you moisture levels, but I love using my hands.

If the dirt feels wet, it’s way too soon, come back in a few days.

If the soil dry at the top and a little moist below, give it a day and check it again.

If it’s dry, then it’s time to water!

How much water should I use?

Fiddles love to be watered deeply, meaning you are putting enough water into the dirt that it runs out the bottom of the planter (this is why good drainage is so important!!)

This is how you should be watering it every time. The amount of time between waterings is entirely dependent on how the plant is consuming it, the season, the light conditions, and the size of the planter. Just make sure the top 2 inches are dry before you water again!

When the water starts coming out of the drainage holes, you’ve likely got enough-unless your soil is too dry- keep reading for that situation!) Let the water sit in the pan for about 15 minutes so that the soil can reabsorb some of it and then after 15 or so minutes, clean up the rest. (I use a towel to absorb the extra!)

Regularly checking the soil to see how it’s doing is key, you’ll do great!!

Tip- Stay alert for soil shrinkage!!

If your plant is too dried out the soil will shrink in and pull away from the edge of your planter. (See image below!) This isn’t good because when you water, the water will just drain down the gaping sides and out of the holes in your planter without ever getting to the root ball.

I keep a chopstick handy and poke it a few times into the soil to break things up, add oxygen, and make sure that the water reaches the center of my plant.

Tip – Group other houseplants near your fiddle leaf fig to encourage more humidity!

Sunlight For Your Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant

The fiddle leaf fig loves the sun! Kind of… Mostly.

She’s a fair skinned mama who lives at the beach. Even though she goes often, she doesn’t tan very well so she wears 50 spf and a long sleeved swim shirt! Find a spot in your home that gives the FLF a plethora of indirect sunlight.

If she is getting too much direct sun, she’ll sunburn. Turn the plant every 2-3 months as it starts to grow towards the light. This will help the leaves to grow evenly around the entire plant. (Read the troubleshooting guide at the end of this post to see what sunburn looks like!)

Need more info about the lighting conditions in your house? Read this post!

Soil For Your Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant

Garden soil is too heavy for most house plants. Look for an indoor potting mix. It has all the yummy stuff the indoor fiddle leaf fig needs to grow big and strong. Some growers recommend a peaty soil. But really any general indoor potting mix is going to work great. The most important thing to remember is the drainage. A soggy water logged soil will cause root rot!

Tip: Mix your indoor potting soil with ⅓ cactus soil. Cactus soil is rockier than most potting soils and it’s help with your water drainage.

Aside from the potting soil, you can give your FLF a boost of confidence (especially during the growing season) with the right fertilizers and plant foods. I recommend Plant Food, it’s THE BEST fertilizer for every single one of your houseplants. 

Potting Your Fiddle Fig Leaf Houseplant

Size

Like all houseplants, your FLF needs the right size pot! A pot that’s too small will crowd the root system and the plant will starve. But a pot that’s too big is the perfect environment for root rot. The sweet spot (usually what you bought the FLF in) is a pot that’s 1/3 wider than the plant’s root ball.

When should I repot?!

As a plant that doesn’t handle stress well, I recommend leaving your fiddle in the grow pot (the planter you purchased it in) for at least a few months while it acclimates to your home. It’s typically a good fit for the first year. After a year, the root system will likely be in need of a larger home. Find a pot made out of ceramic, stoneware, terra cotta, fiberglass, or something more substantial than plastic (but not wood – too porous – it’ll steal all of your fiddles water). It should be 2-3 inches larger in diameter than the plastic pot your fiddle came home in.

Tip: The black plastic pot your FLF was sold in is a little on the sad side. Cover it up by sticking it straight into a heavy duty ceramic pot to disguise the flimsy original.

Does My Pot Need To Have Drainage Holes?

YES!! If you love your plant like I know you do, you’ll set her up with a great drainage system to prevent root rot. Fiddles are prone to root rot and NEEEEED good drainage. This is the very best way to do this…

Do you have a super cool planter that doesn’t have any drainage holes?

As long as it’s big enough to fit another pot inside, you’re good to go. Leave your FLF in the pot you purchased it in. Fill your decorative pot with a layer or gravel on the bottom. Then place your FLF and its cheap plastic planter right inside the decorative pot – Ta da!! It’s beautiful, it matches the decor, and by-golly it’s got a great drainage system. Just make sure to soak up the excess water that drains out of your plant after watering.

A fiddle that is planted without good drainage will turn on you faster than you can say Regina George.

Repotting

A young, small fiddle leaf fig grows quickly during its first few years of life so plan on repotting it once a year. As you move the FLF into a new, better fitting pot, prep the soil with more nutrients using fertilizer for indoor plants and a bit of FLF plant food. Fill ¼ of the pot with gravel or lava rocks for drainage. Then, fill 1/3 of the remaining space with potting mix. Set the FLF into the pot. The top of the root ball should be an inch or so below the rim of the pot. Fill the remaining space in the pot with potting soil and water it well!

A fiddle leaf fig tree in the right conditions will grow – and grow, and grow – so get your pots ready!

Fiddle Leaf Fig Trees vs. Fiddle Leaf Fig Plants

You can buy Fiddles in 2 different shapes, a tree shape or a column shape.

Tree Shape:

A tree shape has a single trunk and multiple branches, and looks, well, like a tree. Tree fiddles are more mature and tend to be more expensive. Fiddles branch when they are pruned and trained to do so. It’s not really their natural tendency-especially ones that have had a plush life in the greenhouse, so tree shaped fiddles are very intentionally done that way.

Column Shape:

If a tall columnar tree with leaves that run all the way to the soil is your end goal then you are good from the word go! Columnar fiddles are they way that a fiddle naturally grows. Most small fiddles come this way and left to thrive, will just continue rising in one single stalk without branching. If you’ve got a columnar fiddle and want a tree, keep reading to learn how to prune it! (Thanks Chelsey for this picture!)

Pruning a Fiddle Leaf Fig

Remember earlier in this post we talked about the 2 different shapes of fiddles? All fiddles naturally grow in a column shape, to get them to grow into a tree shape you’ve got to be willing to prune it. I’ve got a post with 3 different techniques that will make your fiddle branch!

Troubleshooting A Sick Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant

If your fiddle leaf fig is anything less than green and full, it’s pretty easy to pinpoint the cause of his bad attitude. Most commonly, indoor fiddle leaf figs are have an issue with light, watering, or both. With a little tinkering, you can turn its health around before it’s too late. Just watch for the signs below and follow through with the corresponding treatment.

One thing to keep in mind with Fiddle Leaf Figs, once a leaf has been damaged there is really no resurrecting it. What we’re doing is diagnosing the problem and moving forward to keep the plant healthy in the future. What will likely happen is that when new growth starts shooting up, the tree will stop giving energy to the damaged leaves and they will eventually dry up and fall off. I came home to just that situation last week. This leaf was the lowest one on the tree that had damage. It was completely dried out, the plant used everything it had to offer and then let it drop.

Fiddle Leaf Figs do not regrow lost leaves the way the Rubber Plants can. So keeping them healthy is super important because once the leaf is gone, it’s gone.

Why does my Fiddle Leaf have dark brown spots?

The most common cause of dark brown spots on a fiddle leaf fig is root rot from overwatering.

Symptom:

Dark brown to black spots that spread on the leaves over a period of days or weeks, followed by leaf drop. The spotting occurs around the edges or base of the leaf. Lower leaves are usually affected first and discoloration will gradually spread up the tree.

Cause:

It’s just so easy to over-love these aloof Treenagers and smother them with our good intentions. Root rot is a fungal infection that happens when roots sit in water for too long and don’t have adequate drainage.

Solution:

Fiddle leaf fig roots in particular need fast-draining soil and maximum drainage. To verify root rot, take the plant out of the planter and clear off some of the soil. The roots should be firm. If the soil smells bad and/or the roots are mushy you’ve just confirmed it. With a sharp sterile pair of shears, cut the bad roots away and replant with fresh new soil.

If the roots seem fine, just a little mushy, put back in the planter and allow it to dry out for 1-2 weeks,  start watering again when the soil is dry on the top 3″. In mild cases of root rot this can correct it!

Why does my Fiddle Leaf have dry patches on the edges?

Symptom:

Light brown dry spots that start at the edges of the plant.

Cause:

A very dry fiddle leaf fig can quickly develop brown spots, which typically are more tan in color than brown and start at the edge of the leaf and spread inward. Couple this with droopy leaves and you’ve got an underwatering situation!

Make sure that the water you are giving your fiddle is being absorbed. The soil tends to compact and shrink after it’s been too dry. So while you might be watering it thinking its doing ok, the water isnt reaching the root ball at all. Thus continuing the downward spiral to certain death.

Solution:

Before you water, take a chopstick and poke it into the soil, loosening it and creating holes for oxygen. Water it deeply so that the water starts to drain out of the bottom of your planter. And gosh darn it, get on a consistent schedule!

Why is the new growth dying?

Symptom:

New growth is dry and falls off before fully forming a new leaf.

Cause:

The dried out new growth makes me wonder if it dried out during a growth spurt.

Solution:

If you are struggling to give it consistent moisture, try repotting in a larger planter, this will give you a little longer between waterings.

Why does my Fiddle Leaf have tiny reddish brown spots on new growth?

Symptom:

Tiny reddish brown spots on new growth that spread over the whole leaf.

Cause:

These little red spots are usually caused by edema. When the new leaf is forming it absorbs water right? Well if the plant is overwatered, the new overfilled cells can burst leaving behind these little reddish brown spots.

Solution:

If this is happening to your plant DONT STRESS!! It is SUPER common during growth seasons when you are watering your plant more frequently, and as the leaf matures and adapts to the new watering schedule, the spots should disappear.

Why does my Fiddle Leaf have light colored dry patches?

Symptom:

Light to white dry patches on the leaves.

Cause:

Your fiddle is being sunburned! It’s getting to much direct light and/or not enough water.

Solution:

Move it out of direct sunlight and keep the watering schedule the same. You can also make the environment a little more humid by misting the leaves once a week.

Why do the leaves on my Fiddle Leaf Fig look light colored and dull?

Symptom:

Leaves are a yellowy green and dull. They are sometimes droopy.

Cause:

Underwatering and malnourishment

Solution:

If your fiddle is looking lifeless and you’re keeping up on the watering and it should otherwise be thriving, it probably needs some sustenance by way of plant food. Just like humans, plants need nourishment! I am loving this fiddle plant food off of amazon.

Why is my Fiddle Leaf Fig dropping leaves?

Symptom:

Your fiddle is dropping seemingly healthy leaves. They are fully green with no discoloration.

Cause:

Your plant is throwing a tantrum. It likely is new, or was recently moved to a new part of the house. It’s most likely a shock from temperature or lighting changes.

Solution:

Look around and see what could be causing it. Is it in an entryway that gets a gust of cold wind when the door opens? If so, move it to a safer place. If it’s a new plant or was recently moved, its acclimating to it’s new environment and you’ve just gotta ride it out.

Why are the lower leaves falling off?

Symptom:

Lower leaves turn yellow and/or dry up, and fall off.

Cause:

If this is only happening sporadically, dont worry! Lower leaves that turn yellow and fall off are super normal for healthy plants (we’re talking 1-2) If everything else with your fiddle is checking out, you are a-okay. This can happen as a new plant acclimates to your house!

If it is happening a lot, then you are likely overwatering your fiddle.

Solution:

If overwatering is happening, cut back the frequency and let the soil dry out. Follow the watering guide earlier in this post and start again.

If the overwatering developed root rot, jump to the first question in the troubleshooting guide and see how much you can salvage!

Why are there cracks in my Fiddle Leaf Fig’s leaves?

Symptom:

Cracks and tears in the leaves

Cause:

Cracks and tears in a fiddle leaf is usually caused by physical damage.

Solution:

Get that puppy out of harm’s way and threaten your family with life and limb if they cause any more damage! Is it in a high traffic area where it gets pushed against?

Why Isn’t My Fiddle Leaf Fig Growing?!

Symptom:

While your fiddle is still alive, and may occasionally drop leaves it’s not thriving (or even growing!) 

Cause:

Your fiddle is maintaining. It’s not getting enough sunlight/water/nourishment to grow. It’s getting exactly what it needs to survive.

Solution:

Start by cleaning off the leaves. They can get really dusty and the dust can prevent your fiddle from turning all of the good sunlight into energy. Next try out some fertilizer (this one is my favorite) and see if that helps to snap it out of the slump. If it doesn’t, check the roots, they might be so tightly bound that they aren’t getting any nourishment from the soil. If that is the case, repot it in a larger pot. If it still isn’t snapping out, move it somewhere where it will get brighter light. You’ll need to keep a close eye on the soil because more light also means more water consumption.

My Fiddle’s Leaves are Dull and Dusty, What’s the Best Way to Clean Them?

Symptom: Leaves are dull, dusty, and grimy 

Cause: 

Solution: Leaves need to be regularly cleaned. This helps with light absorption and makes your plant all around healthier! If you just want to wipe your leaves down a baby wipe is perfect for the job. The mild soap is safe for leaves and the soft cloth wont damage them.

Before You Go Out And Buy A Fiddle Leaf Fig

You’ve seen these babies rule as the houseplant queen for years on the internet, and for good reason! They are seriously gorgeous. I know it’s tempting to RUN to your local nursery to buy one (or three), but hang on a second! You’ll have a much easier time keeping one of these healthy if you do a bit of homework first.

• Lighting is the most important thing to consider when buying a Fiddle Leaf Fig. They love bright indirect light. Think a giant north facing window, or a room with loads of windows. You can learn all about the lighting in your home with our guide here! If your plan is to put this guy in a dark room, you’ll be sending him straight to the cemetery. Bright happy light is the best for a Fiddle.
• Fiddle’s also have very low temperature change tolerance. So a breezy entryway in the colder (or hotter!) months will not be a great home and it will tell you by dropping leaves.
• Fiddle’s also hate to be messed with. Like a teenager, once they find somewhere they’re comfortable- they want to stay there forever. Don’t plan on moving this guy around your house, go into the store with a game plan and it will set you up for success!

Buying A Fiddle Leaf Fig

Price

You don’t have to buy a full grown tree unless you absolutely want to. A large potted fiddle leaf fig (4 to 6 feet) will range from $100-$500. Smaller varieties (1.5-3 feet) come in closer to $30.

Where to buy

Check the pricing at your local nursery! Court and I are true believers in supporting local businesses. We have an AMAZING nursery in southern Utah that we get all of our greens from and hands down, we prefer shopping with these guys over any other company. The store is called Moss and Timber and if you get the chance to go-DO IT!!

Because Fiddle Leaf Figs are so popular, you can find them tons of other places. I’ve bought them at Home Depot, and Lowes, you can also periodically find them at Costco.

Remember how I said earlier that Fiddles dont like to be moved and arent happy about temp. changes? If you can be patient, wait to buy your fiddle leaf fig when the weather warms up. They don’t transport well so if you find one at a nursery or order it online during the cold months, the poor guy will go through heck to get to you and will likely have a hard time recovering.

Buying online

You absolutely can buy Fiddle Leaf Figs online, but just know that they will likely arrive with leaf damage. Shipping smaller plants (like this one!)  is easier and they are less likely to have damage, but large trees will almost always have some leaf damage.

Anything Else You Should Know?

But of course! Below are just a few more tidbits to keep in mind if you’re growing your own fiddle leaf fig. Let me know if I missed anything! If you have questions about your fiddle that I didn’t answer here, please reach out!

Random Stuff You Should Know If You Own A Fiddle Leaf Fig House Plant

1. 1. Dust the leaves every 2-3 months with a damp rag or a gentle, rain like shower with the hose. A clean leaf, free of dust and yuck will be shinier, greener, and bigger.
   2. It is poisonous, but only mildly so. Just don’t ingest the white sap that oozes out after a pruning.
   3. Avoid moving the plant long distances. They don’t take to change very well.
   4. Takes a few weeks to acclimate to a new home.
   5. Rotate that plant every 3 months during the colder seasons and more frequently in the warmer months.

Not quite ready for a Fiddle Leaf Fig? I recommend starting with a Rubber Plant!

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The post The Complete Guide To Caring for A Fiddle Leaf Fig appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Getting your Rubber Plant, Fiddle Leaf Fig, or other Ficus to branch is so easy, but it can be a little stressful emotionally, so I’m here to talk you through it step by step!

A lot of ficus varieties like the Rubber Plant and Fiddle Leaf are not natural branchers. I’m sure you’ve seen them grow in tall singular columns with one stalk right?

My Rubber Plant has grown just like this! See 3 stalks, zero branches. 

But forcing them to branch is super simple. You’ve just got to inflict a little damage. And it feels like you’re the meanest plant parent in the entire world, which is why I’m here, to talk you through it!

It’s super important to make sure that you’ve got a healthy plant to begin with. Trying to do this to a plant that is unhealthy might cause too much stress and it will give up the ghost.

How does it work?!

Plants have little bumps on them called Nodes. Nodes are where new growth forms. On ficus, the node is right above each leaf. They are easy to spot because at the same place the node is, there is a thicker ring that runs around the stalk.

When you remove the new growth, the node(s) closest to the top will start to grow and become a branch. 

Technique #1 Pinching Back New Growth

The quick and easiest way to do this is to find the new growth on your stalk. See that leaf sheath? That is exactly what we’re looking for. When a plant has a new growth tip on it, it sends inhibitors down to the nodes that keeps them dormant. Once the new growth is gone, the nodes are free to start new growth.

To do this, simply pinch the base of the new growth and snap it back.

The tree will leak white sap that can irritate sensitive skin, so keep that in mind.

The tip will develop a callous, and the nodes will start growing within a few weeks/months.

Because you are just pinching off a new leaf there isnt a node attached, which means that you cant propagate it.

Technique #2 Cutting Back New Growth

Cutting back new growth is a little different than pinching it back. When you are cutting back new growth it leaves you with pieces that you can then propagate. 

Tip: Learn to Propagate Your Ficus

Step 1

To do this, use a sharp sterile pair of pruning shears and cut about 1/2″ above a leaf/node. You dont want to cut it too close to the node, but leaving too much will make the end of the new cut shrivel up and it can become rotted.

The tip of this Audrey Ficus was cut off and the plant has started to branch from the nodes.

It’s also branching from nodes that are lower on the tree where leaves have been lost. 

Technique #3 Notching

Unlike the other 2 options, Notching doesnt remove any part of the tree. Instead it’s a strategic cut or score made on the trunk or branch of a plant.

Step 1

Find a spot on your tree between 2 nodes.

Step 2

Using a sharp knife or pair of pruning sheers, make an angled cut that goes about 1/4 of the way through your trunk. If the knife isnt sharp enough, you’ll just be creating a scar and the plant wont branch.

Step 3

Mark that area with a small piece of ribbon and check on the closest nodes frequently. You should see new growth after a month or so!

Which technique is right for my tree?

Technique #2 leaves the branching entirely in your hands. If your tree is almost hitting the ceiling, using the pinching technique isnt going to be super helpful, because it will just create branches at the ceiling height. 

Do you have a small plant that you are starting off

Pay attention to the direction of the node. You want to make as calculated cuts as possible. Is the highest node that will grow once you’ve made your cut facing in or away from the center of the tree? The direction of the node will determine the direction of the branch growth. 

Sprouting more than one branch

Pruning your tree during growth season is your best bet. When a tree is actively growing it will send out more than one shoot and the plant will recover from the stress of pruning quicker. If you prune your tree during a dormant season (like winter) it will likely only send out one branch if that. Keep that in mind so that your plant can still thrive.

Giving your plant the absolute best light is a game changer, but the best thing you can do is feed them. Plants need nutrition, just like humans! The absolute best fertilizer that you can use is Happy Happy Houseplant Plant Food. It is LIFE CHANGING. It comes in a cute bottle that you can keep on your counter, and you use it every single time you water. You’ll never forget to feed it because it’s so consistent! And it is an absolute miracle!! New growth galore!! 

Any questions? Leave them below!!

Learn all about caring for your Rubber Plant here!

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The post How to Get Your Rubber Plant, Fiddle Leaf Fig, (and Other Ficus Trees!) to Branch appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Having a Snake Plant in your home should be at the top of your list! They are great for beginners because they adapt well to any lighting situation and don’t require frequent waterings (usually about every 2-3 weeks!) Their structural vibe will take your decor up like 50 levels, and they are perfect to give as a gift!! Oh and did I mention that they filter the air in your home better than any other houseplant? Yep. Snake plants are going to rock your world!!

Here’s The Gist Of It:

To grow and maintain a healthy snake plant, what you really ought to know is this:

• A snake plant can grow in just about any room in your house.
• They are low maintenance when it comes to water, light, AND soil.
• Water moderately when the top inch of soil is completely dry. About once every two to three weeks.
• More indirect sunlight will result in a faster growing plant while less sunlight will result in a slow growing plant. Either way, the snake plant will stay alive in most lighting conditions!
• Snake plants like a smaller pot – a pot that’s just a bit wider than the base..

If you want screaming success with your snake plant, read on my friend! This guide is sure to give you all the info you need to see your houseplant THRIVE!

A Snake by Any Other Name…

The snake plant – mother-in-law’s tongue – bowstrings hemp – or biologically, Sansevieria. We’ll lovingly call them Sans, that’s what the cool kids do.

Sansevieria are fun because they have such a unique shape and color scheme. Their huge green stalks add variety to the typical houseplant collection. They’re is on my list of best low light house plants and I’m going to tell you everything you need to know to keep this green beauty happy and healthy in your home. (hint: it’s not a lot because they’re really low maintenance!)

Why Snake Plants are the Absolute Coolest

Snake plants filter air better than any other indoor houseplant! Crazy right?! I would’ve thought something with huge bushy leaves would be the best at filtering (IDK why, more surface area?) But this simple fact means that I have a Sans in almost every room in my house!

Snake plants are also very very hard to kill. They happily hang out in low light and thrive on infrequent waterings (perfect for those of use that struggle to remember to wear deodorant, let alone water our plants).

They also bounce back from the brink of death really easily. So if for some chance your dude is struggling, you will still have time to correct it before it gives up the ghost!

Snake Plant Varieties

There are loads of Sansevieria varieties, here are some of my favorite!

Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Black Gold’ (taller variety) or ‘Black Jack’ (shorter variety)

Black Gold and Black Jack are the most common variety, when you think of snake plants you usually think of these guys wither their shock of yellow on the outer edges of the leaves.

Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Black Robusta’ (taller variety) or  ‘Futura Robusta’ (shorter variety)

Black Robusta and Futura Robusta are dark green with a lighter variegation running horizontally through the leaves.

Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Golden Hahnii’

Birds Nest Sans are a variety family where the short leaves curl back, and take on the shape of a birds nest!

Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Cylindrica’

Cylindrica Snake Plants are SO COOL. The leaves are thick, round, and very firm, with a tough skin. And they come with a few different varieties themselves!

Some stick straight in the air like this Cylindrica

Some have long arms that spread up and out.

And some resemble other things, like this Starfish Sansevieria

The best part is that they all thrive on less than ideal light and water conditions!!

Anatomy of a Snake Plant

Sansevieria are known for their long blade shaped leaves. The green on it is usually variegated and when they’re healthy they stand straight in the air. They always remind me of Honey I Shrunk the Kids, because they look like GIANT blades of grass!

The roots of snake plants are called Rhizomes. This means that that growth can happen on multiple places on the root system at the same time. They are easy to divide, and when planted outside will spread. The roots are very shallow, especially considering how tall the plant can grow. You can plant them in a more shallow container if you want, but the extra soil in a regular sized container can help counter balance the long leaves and keep it from tipping over.

Soil For Your Snake Plant

Unlike other high maintenance house plants, the snake plant doesn’t require fertilizers or plant food to grow. BUT they would grow a bit faster if you fed them a little more.

They also aren’t very picky about which type of soil you use. You don’t have to plant them in an indoor potting mix or specialty soil. Honestly, you could probably dig up whatever is out back and it would be fine! However, I would recommend using half garden soil and half cactus soil. The snake plant has really strong roots that can easily work their way through rocky soil. And the added rock in the cactus soil sets your plant up with a great natural drainage system.

Sunlight For Your Snake Plant

The snake plant adapts really well to most lighting conditions. Especially when it’s grown indoors, you won’t have to worry about him getting too much direct sunlight. Ideally, our friend prefers lots of indirect sunlight. But again (and I cannot stress this enough), you could keep a snake plant alive in a basement bathroom.

Watering Your Snake Plant

The Snake plant is an extremely low maintenance house plant. It’s almost as drought tolerant as a cactus. Watering is infrequent and only when the top two inches of soil are bone dry do you water it again! I check mine about every two weeks.

Tip – Water with room temp water to avoid scaring the leaves.

Plants need nutrition, just like humans! The absolute best fertilizer that you can use is Happy Happy Houseplant Plant Food. It is LIFE CHANGING. It comes in a cute bottle that you can keep on your counter, and you use it every single time you water. You’ll never forget to feed it because it’s so consistent! And it is an absolute miracle!! New growth galore!! 

Potting Your Snake Plant

Smaller pots are better when it comes to the snake plant. They grow faster in a smaller pot because they like a crowded root system. 

Tip: Most Sans will come in a fairly thin black plastic pot. As the roots systems become more developed, they can bulge and even break the plastic pot. If you need to get the plastic pot off your plant without damaging the roots, just take a pair of scissors and cut the pot away from the root system. See how out of round the planter is in the picture below? These guys have seriously strong roots!

Does My Pot Need To Have Drainage Holes?

Yes, yes, and yes. Always. Set yourself up for success with your houseplants by including a great draining system in each potted plant. Without a great drainage system, the water that the plant doesn’t need sits and causes mold, fungus, and root rot. A overwatered, poorly drained plant is a recipe for disaster. Layer rocks/gravel at the bottom of the pot, then add your soil mixture.

But some planters don’t have draining holes! If you bought yourself a super cute planter only to realize it didn’t have a hole in the bottom, don’t stress too much. A planter without drainage holes can still house a snake plant. I’m telling you, these are the toughest houseplants! Layer the bottom of your pot with gravel, add your soil and your snake plant. Don’t worry about a water tray. The rocks act as your water tray, allowing the soil to let go of unnecessary water and avoid root rot. Because the snake plant is so dang durable, this will likely be just fine. Couple this with the infrequent watering and your snake plant will be just fine.

Pruning Tips

There are a few cases in which you’ll want to prune your snake plant. It could be outgrowing the pot you have it in. The leaves may have fallen over or turned brown. In any case, pruning is pretty simple:

• When you cut the stalk, it’ll ooze a bit and that goo is mildly poisonous. Guys, I can’t believe I’m typing this, but don’t eat it.
• Cut damaged or dropping leaves near the base of the plant. Don’t throw these cuttings away!! They can be propagated into new snake plants! 

Buying A Snake Plant

Check with growers around town. These houseplants are super tough. They transport well. And they’re easy to propagate. They can be a little on the expensive side if you’re snagging them from a nursery (around $50-$100 for a full size one) but I see them all the time at Home Depot for half that price. I just scored some at a local nursery for $12.98, and a lot of IG comments mentioned getting them at Walmart for $10. So if you’re in the market, check your local hardware store garden first. If they don’t have them, you’re sure to find them at your local nursery. 

Favorite Places For Growing A Snake Plant In My Home

Remember when I mentioned earlier that almost all of my rooms have a snake plant in them? That’s not a joke. They do well everywhere like this colorful desert nomad room!! 

Even in our desert climate, we can grow snake plants outside. I keep them in the pot (because they like a crowded root system) and out of direct sunlight. They do really well on our north facing porch or on our gorgeous patio! 

Troubleshooting A Sick Snake Plant

I asked on Instagram last week if you guys would send in pictures of your dying snake plants, and these are some of them!!

If your snake plant is anything less than green and full, there has to be something wrong with it. Because the snake plant is so good at adapting to most lighting situations, it’s usually a case of over or under watering. Usually over watering, remember Sans thrive on neglect. Just watch for the signs below and follow through with the corresponding treatment:

Why does my snake plant have bloated brown slimy leaves?

Likely cause/solution: Your snake plant is waterlogged! This only happens when you’re overwatering your houseplant. Prune waterlogged leaves. Cut back on the watering and if the problem is still occurring, maybe your pot isn’t draining very well. Try repotting.

Why does my snake plant have brown crunchy leaves?

Likely cause/solution: The snakes are thirsty. Water more frequently.

Why are the tips of my snake plant leaves brown and dry?

Likely cause/solution: Infrequent watering. Create a more consistent watering schedule.

Why are the leaves of my snake plant scarred or splitting?

Likely cause/solution: The snake plant is getting too much action. Maybe it’s in a high traffic zone and being touched too often by hands or people walking by. This scarring doesn’t hurt the snake plant, it just makes it look less than perfect! If it makes you crazy, you can snip the leaves

Why are the leaves on my snake plant droopy?

Likely cause/solution: This can be another sign of overwatering. Be sure to water only when the top two inches of soil are completely dry. Also, look at the container that your plant is in. Is it pretty shallow? Having wiggle room at the base of the plant can absolutely cause the leaves to appear droopy, when in reality they just need to be put in a different planter! (That is what is happening in the picture above!

Why are the leaves of my snake plant shriveled up and wrinkled?

Likely cause/solution: This can be caused by the plant freezing! If you left him outside too long on a cold day or the plant is in direct line of a cold draft when the door opens. This can also be caused by underwatering. Check the soil

Why are the leaves of my snake plant covered in white spots?

Likely cause/solution: Your snake plant has scale! These little creatures will completely cover the leaves and suffocate them. Cut this leaf off and throw it away. Removing all of the other bugs from the remaining leaves is also super important as the scale will divide and take over again. To remove the scale use a mixture of 1 liter water + 1 tablespoon of vinegar and clean each leaf thoroughly by wiping it off every 2 days until the scale disappears.

Why is my snake plant tiny and not growing?!

Likely cause/solution: I got this question SO MUCH, and as I looked through the pictures I saw that for most asking, there wast a problem with their snake plant growing, the just didnt know the variety that they had purchased! If you’ve got a plant that seems stunted, it might be the mini version!

Anything Else You Should Know?

But of course! Below are just a few more tidbits to keep in mind if you’re growing your own snake plant. Let me know if I missed anything! If you have questions about your snake plant (or any of your houseplants) that I didn’t answer here, please reach out! And as always, love your guts. –Mandi

Green Thumb Still Itching? Check out these popular posts as well!

• The Ultimate Guide to Rubber Plants
• Mandi’s Master List of Low Light Indoor Plants
• STOP KILLING YOUR PLANTS!! The Parable of the Accessory Plant 

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The post The Complete Guide To Caring For Your House Plants: Snake Plant Edition appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Guys. The plant obsession is taking over my life- and I’m SO HAPPY ABOUT IT!! Today’s DIY project is a modern propagation planter! You can also use it as a bud vase and a million other things. I feel a follow up post coming on.

*Just interested in buying them? Click here to go directly to our shop!!*

So lets kick this off by talking about Propagating!

What is Propagating?

Propagating is the process of taking a cutting from a plant, putting it in water or soil and over time new roots grow, thus creating a new plant! Picture taking a finger, cutting it off, placing it in a cup of water and growing a new human. I was getting some high society status points by using the word thus, but then totally killed it by talking about human fingers. Plants are cool, I am not.

A lot of propagation starts out by rooting the cutting in water. When the roots have grown a couple of inches, then you transfer it to soil. So having a clear container to see the roots can be super important. There are all different types of propagation depending on the type of plant, if you want to know more about your favorite plants and how to propagate them you can check that out here!

Keep The Water Fresh

To propagate, you need a clean container that can easily have the water replaced (you’ll want to do this every few days with your cuttings) I’ve been using cups, but they are so big that the small cuttings fall inside and it just turns into a frustrating balance game. You need something small, like a test tube And also adorable, because hello, this is your house!

Test Tube Propagation DIY Project

As I was writing the tutorial for this project I came to the realization that while the project is easy enough to make, the gear to do it is a little more expensive than I would’ve liked. (about $115 for 5 completed planters) That’s why we’ve decided to offer these pre-made plant prop stations in the Vintage Revivals Shop for a limited time! You can buy them pre-made here! As far as I know no one has ever tried a DIY and Buy option for a project, so let’s see how it goes!

If you are DIY or die like myself, here is the tutorial!

Supplies:

Wood (we use Birch Plywood)
Test Tubes (Jumbo and Medium)
Neodymium Magnets
Glass Glue
Super Glue
Painters Tape

Tools:

3″ Hole Saw

Keyhole Router Bit

10mm Drill Bit

Step 1: Cut Your Discs

Start by cutting the 3″ round discs out of wood. When you’re using a hole saw, make sure that your drill is nice and vertical. Even better than a drill is a drill press! This will make it easier to drill because the teeth of the saw will hit the wood at the same time and your disc will be evenly shaped!

Step 2: Sand the Disc

This is a super important part for the finish of your disc, a light sanding along the edge makes all the difference! Use 220 grit sand paper!

Step 3: Drill the Keyhole Hanger

To get your disc to lay flush against the wall, you’ll want to use a keyhole router bit to cut the hole in the back. Use the hole that was drilled all the way through your disc when you were cutting it with the holesaw as a guide for your keyhole.

Step 4: Drill Pocket for magnets

On the face of your disk, take a drill bit that is the same size as your magnets (ours is a 10mm) and drill down the depth of 2 magnets. You can mark this depth on your drill bit by using painters tape!

Step 5: Glue 1 Magnet in the Bottom of the Pocket

Put your Super Glue inside the pocket that you just created and put one magnet inside.

Flip the disc over and put a little more glue inside the hole against the magnet from the back. Let it dry completely before coming in contact with the second magnet that you’ll be attaching to the test tube!

Step 6: Attach Magnet to Test Tube

Take your painters tape and put a small piece so that it sits flush against the lip of your test tube. Don’t wrap it all the way around the tube, you still want to be able to see through the glass. This step is super important if you are making multiples! You’ll want all of your test tubes to line up and this is a quick and easy way to make sure that all of the magnets are glued in the right spot!

* You want the magnet on the test tube and on the wooden disc to attract so make sure that you are gluing the back of the magnet to the test tube!*

Place your magnet face down and put glass glue (NOT super glue!!) on the back of it. Line the top of the magnet up with the bottom of the painters tape and let the test tube rest on top of the magnet while it dries.

Step 8: When the glass glue has cured, remove the painters tape and stick the magnets together!

TA DAAAA! You are a rockstar!! Attach a screw to the wall and hang!

The magnets wont effect the plant growth at all and you’ll be able to easily change out the water so that your little planties can thrive!

Can’t wait to see these popping up all over your house!! If you are interested in buying some, head over to the shop before they’re gone!!

The post Modern Test Tube Propagation Planter | To DIY or To Buy!! appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Rubber Plant or as they’re scientifically known Ficus Elastica are one of my FAVORITE indoor plants. They can be small enough to sit on your desk or so large that they touch the ceiling. They come in a few varieties (that we’ll talk about in a bit!) but regardless of if it’s a small rubber plantlet or a huge rubber plant tree this easy to care for guy is going to give you all the warm plant lover vibes! (Just make sure you treat it like a friend)

This post is chock full of everything you need to know to not only keep your Rubber Plant happy, but absolutely thriving!

Fun Facts To Keep In Mind

• Rubber Plants are not self supporting, the longer they grow the droopier they get. You can keep your rubber plant standing upright by using bamboo or dowels. I just use the leaves to hold it in place.
• Rubber Plants are quick growers, growing as much as 24″ in a season!
• Rubber plants are poisonous. They produce a milky sap when their leaves or stems are broken. This sap contains latex and can be poisonous to animals and humans.
• Rubber Plants consume their soil, so keep a supply on hand for when things get low! We’ll dive into this more later.

Anatomy of a Rubber Plant

The Rubber is a cousin to the fickle Fiddle Leaf Fig, and commands the same presence without making you cry tears of frustration.

It’s thick waxy leaves start out as a soft coral and deepen to a dark green as they age. Leaves are oval shaped with thick stems that connect them to the stalk.

The new leaves are grown in a sheath. The sheath starts out as a tiny deep burgundy spike. As the leaf grows inside, the sheath lengthens and turns a shocking shade of pink. The leaf emerges from the sheath and the sheath falls off completely.

If the plant is in growth mode, when the leaf opens there will be a new sheath with a leaf growing inside!

Um, I did not know this the first time my Rubber got a new leaf. I was out of town and came home to find this pink thing on the floor. I thought my kids broke my new leaf off and heads were about to roll, until I looked up and saw this cute fresh shiny leaf. When the sheath falls off, just throw it away and don’t murder anyone.

At the base of the sheath, right above the older leaf is the node. See the little red circle? Nodes are where new branches can grow if a plant is broken or cut for propagation (which we’ll talk about in just a bit!)

As Rubber plants grow, the older parts of the stalk develop a bark, Most indoor Rubber plants wont grow thick enough to have their stocks turn into self-supporting trunks and will need support from bamboo stalks

Variegated Rubber Plants

Variegated Rubber Plants have the coolest leaves. They are usually white and different shades of green, but can also be pink!

If you have a variegated rubber, you definitely want to avoid direct sunlight. Variegated Rubber plants are more sensitive to direct sunlight and have a harder time producing chlorophyll (what is made when sunlight is converted to sugar) so they can grow at a slower rate than their fully green counterparts.

Best Lighting for Rubber Plants

Rubber Plants, like most Ficus plants love bright indirect light. The giant one that I have in my house is in a huge north facing window. If your Rubber Plant isnt getting enough light you’ll know because it can start dropping leaves (this is usually in connection with overwatering).

If your Rubber Plant is in a window that gets direct sunlight it should still be ok, you just might need to keep a closer eye on the soil moisture!

Wonder what kind of lighting is in your house? Take our quiz and find out!

Watering a Rubber Plant

Rubber Plants love consistently moist soil without soggy roots.

Checking the Moisture Level

You’ll know when it’s time to water when you stick a skewer (or your finger) in the soil and find that the top 2 inches has dried out. I love the skewer method because you can poke around the roots and aerate the soil so that it’s getting fresh oxygen at the roots and breaking up the compacted dirt.

How Often Should I Water?

The frequency will vary on the size of your planter, the proximity to a window, and the time of year, so by paying attention and checking the soil you should be able to stay on top of it! Water when the top 2″ of soil is dried out.

How Much Water Should I Use?

Water deeply (meaning until water drains from the holes in the planter) or until you’ve used 1/4 of the container size in water if your planter doesnt have drainage holes. This means if your plant is in a 4 gallon container, you’ll use 1 gallon of water.

Feeding your Rubber Plant

Plants need nutrition, just like humans! The absolute best fertilizer that you can use is Happy Happy Houseplant Plant Food. It is LIFE CHANGING. It comes in a cute bottle that you can keep on your counter, and you use it every single time you water. You’ll never forget to feed it because it’s so consistent! And it is an absolute miracle!! New growth galore!! 

Soil for Rubber Plants

Rubber Plants hate soggy roots, so a well draining soil is very important. Whenever I heard that I was always like, yes but what does that mean?! Cactus potting mix is an extremely well draining soil and can be used as a great general soil when you are replanting.

Ficus plants like Rubber and Fiddle Leaf Figs consume their soil, so watch for the roots to start getting close to popping out of the surface. When this happens, just add more soil to the top and you’ll be good for a few more months!

When to Repot Your Rubber Plant

There is a lot of confusion about when and if you should repot a plant when you bring it home. Most growers put a lot of thought and effort into the potting mix that your plants are potted in, so I would say that unless you are dealing with root rot, or your plant’s growth is stunted from the size of the planter, its totally fine to keep it in the original pot and put it inside a larger decorative one

How fast to Rubber Plants grow?

Rubber Plants are quick growers when they are in the right conditions. If you have the patience and the time, a rubber plant that starts small and adapts to your space as it grows will do even better than a large tree transplanted into your home.

In the right conditions a Rubber plant can sprout up to 24″ in a growing season. If you plant has more than one stalk, its common to have more than one shooting up at the same time. My big guy has 3 stalks and when it’s blooming, 2 of the stalks are usually growing at the same time.

Sidenote:
If you notice that your Rubber Plant’s leaves are standing vertical, it is probably because it’s turned them to face the sun. This is totally normal and can be corrected by simply rotating the plant so that the light is hitting it differently! Notice the leaves in the photo below, see how so many of them are standing vertical? The plant needed to be rotated!

How to Propagate a Rubber Plant

Rubber plant propagation is really easy! Nodes can root in water or soil. Propagate from wood parts of the stalk?

Step 1: Cut the Stalk

Cut the stalk between the leaves, you can get multiple starts from one stalk!

Remember, the node is right by the leaf! Each cutting should have a small portion of stalk and a leaf on it.

Step 2: Wash the white sap off of the cuttings

You can also dip the ends of the cutting in rooting hormone or honey to encourage root growth.

Step 3: Place the cutting in water (or soil)

Just make sure that the node stays covered!

Step 4: Replace the water every few days.

Fresh water has oxygen in it that the plant needs! Check for root growth! It can take a few months for the cuttings to root, dont get discouraged, as long as your leaf is still alive, things are happening!!

Step 5: Plant the Rooted Cutting in Soil

Congrats!! Once your Rubber Plant has rooted it’s time to put it in soil! Use a well draining mix that we talked about earlier in this post and watch it thrive!!

How to Clean Dust Off of Leaves

Plants with large leaves can get really dusty, this is a problem because like solar panels, leaves are the way that the plant absorbs light. If the weather is nice outside, take your Rubber Plant out and gently hose it off. Think of how rain would hit it and do it that way! This should clean off most of the dust! If the grime is a little thicker, or if you arent able to move your plant outside, use a baby wipe to wipe them down! You can buy sprays that make the leave extra shiny but I tend to steer away from them because they make the plant look fake.

Are Rubber Plants poisonous?

Rubber Plants are considered poisonous. They produce a milky sap that contains Latex that can be harmful to human and animals. But don’t freak out. They are classified as Toxicity Class 4- which is the most mild classification- meaning no one is going to die. The sap can cause minor skin irritation to larger rashes.

My Rubber Plant is Leggy (Can it Regrow Leaves?)

When Rubber Plants drop leaves they can become leggy, meaning there are no leaves on the lower part of the plant. Rubber plants do not regrow leaves from the lower parts of their stalks, only from the top. So there is no way to make a plant less leggy.

To make your Rubber Plant appear fuller you’ll need to replant smaller stalks in the planter with the larger ones. This will fill out the lower naked space make the plant look bushier.

HELP!! What is Wrong with My Rubber Plant!?

One of the best things about social media is crowd sourcing, as I was writing this post I thought- wouldnt it be cool if we could see real life scenarios where Rubber Plants are struggling, and diagnose what is happening so everyone can learn from it?! So I posted on Instagram and got the best pictures! I’ve got my bestie plant expert Shane in the house to break down what is happening and how to fix it!

Leaves are turning yellow and falling off

If the leaves are lower like they are on this plant, its because the plant is using up all of its energy for new larger growth. These guys arent getting as much light because they are hidden underneath the larger leaves, and 2. they were the first leaves sprouted and so they’ll be the first to die off as the plant grows. If the rest of the plant seems healthy and there is new growth happening (like there is on this one) don’t worry about a few leaves dying.

If the leaves are higher on the plant, or they are larger new growth, your Rubber Plant is drowning! Cut back on the watering and give it a chance to breathe. You wont be able to save the yellowed leaves, but you can keep it happy moving forward!

Lower Leaves Are Dropping

If your Rubber Plant is dropping lower leaves, especially when it’s new in your home, dont worry! This is your rubber plant getting used to it’s new environment. Make sure that it has adequate light  and everything should stop. If they aren’t, look for other signs as to what could be wrong!

Solution: If this is the only thing happening, it’s totally normal!

Leaves are Droopy

The problem with this little guy is that he’s not getting enough sun! The window isnt casting much natural light and he’s in the corner away from where it would likely shine even if it was. Chances are that it is also being overwatered. When light cant reach the plant, they go into hibernation mode and absorb water less quickly.

Solution: Move this plant to a different spot where it wont be missing the sunshine!

Leaves are Turning Brown and Dropping

This is a watering issue. This reader is going too long between waterings. Usually if leaves turn brown and crispy the Rubber Plant isn’t getting enough water. So what is happening is that the leaves start to dry out and they drop when the plant decides that it needs to put all of it’s energy into saving the living leaves. It is also likely not getting enough light.

Solution: Make sure this plant is receiving regular waterings and that the soil is constantly moist.

Stalks are Very Thin and Long

Rubber plants that live indoors will almost always need support, even my tall healthy one has a bamboo support for each stalk! But the issue with this guy is 2 fold. Lack of light is causing it to shoot higher to find any light source, which is why the stalks are so thin.

The second issue is that it’s not getting enough water. See how the leaves are curling back? That is an indicator that it’s thirsty! It might have something to do with the wooden planter that it’s in. The wood might be absorbing a huge portion of the water before your Rubber plant has a chance to! Consider swapping it out for something less absorbent like ceramic, plastic, or glass.

Where to Buy Rubber Plants

You can often find Rubber plants at your local Home Depot or Lowes. They’ll most likely be smaller one though. If you are looking for something larger check out your local indoor nursery. If you’re in Southern Utah you’ve got to go to Moss and Timber! They are my favorite!!

Now you are FULLY prepared to have a thriving and happy Rubber Plant in your home! Welcome to the club my friend!!

Also, PHEW that was a lot of info! Did I miss anything? Leave your questions or comments below!!

The post A Complete Guide To Caring For Rubber Plants and Answers to Why Yours Might Be Dying appeared first on Vintage Revivals.