Vintage Revivals Fearless DIY 2020-03-30T20:30:34Z WordPress Mandi <![CDATA[DIY Magnetic Wood Memo Board]]> 2020-03-30T20:30:34Z 2020-03-30T20:16:23Z I am SO in love with today’s project, I want one in every room of the house. A magnet board that just looks like wood! Because it is!! This is a moderately easy DIY and I think we’ll see it

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I am SO in love with today’s project, I want one in every room of the house.

A magnet board that just looks like wood! Because it is!!

This is a moderately easy DIY and I think we’ll see it take the internet by storm! All you need to do this project is a piece of plywood, Neodymium magnets, and wood glue!

The great thing about this project is that the magnets are super top secret! You can literally put them in anything and no one would ever know, until you blow their mind by putting a piece of art on top of wood. This is a game changer people!!

Supplies You’ll need:

Plywood (mine is 3/4″ Red Oak)
Neodymium Magnets (mine are 10x3mm but you could use any size)
Wood glue
String that doesn’t stretch
Drill Bit (7/16 if you are using 10x3mm magnets)
Jig Saw

Optional Supplies:

Drill Bit Stop Collar
Stud Finder
Painters Tape

How To Draw + Cut an Arch

Cut wood width

To make my shape, I ripped a 3/4″ sheet of plywood long ways (or hot dog style if you remember that from elementary school!) into a 16 ” section.

Marking the Arch

To make the arch, you are going to need a nail, string that doesnt stretch, and a pencil.

Step 1: Find the center of your width (my piece is 16″, so the center is 8″) and mark.

Step 2: Measure down (from the top) 1/2″ longer than the center measurement. This just makes it so that you can get a nice rounded top, as opposed to one that might be a little flat if you are going right against the edge. Mark.

Where these 2 points meet is where you’ll place your nail or screw. Dont put it all the way through the wood, just enough that it’s secure!

Loop the string around the nail. Not too tight, we want it to spin around the nail, not wrap around it as we’re drawing the circle!

Hold your pencil vertical at the edge of your board, and tie the length of the string so that the pencil is just touching the side edge.

Holding the pencil firmly, so that the string is taut, slowly draw a 1/2 circle on your board. Make sure the string is evenly tight the whole time or you’ll end up with something wonky!

Cutting Out The Design

Using a jigsaw, cut along the mark. 

A few tips for using a jigsaw:

  • Pick a side! Plan to cut on either the inside, or outside of the line. I always try to cut along the outside, that way you can see where things need to be trimmed down or sanded to have your perfect shape!
  • If you can, use an air compressor to blow the saw dust away as you are cutting. (This will require another human!) It makes it easier to see your pencil line!
  • Go at a steady pace, not too fast (your design can get squirrely) or too slow (you’ll break chunks off of the veneer on the plywood)
  • Use a sharp blade! If your jigsaw blade is too dull, you’ll rip right through the veneer and leave splinters and pieces missing!
  • Clamp your wood to a sturdy surface! Nothing worse than trying to cut a traveling piece of wood!

Sand the edges of your plywood to smooth out the shape!

Adding the Magnets

Marking the Grid

We are going to start by marking a grid on the backside of the wood. You can add as many magnets as you’d like! Mine are laid out with 4 in each row, and each row is 6″ apart. It’s perfect for the way that I’m using it. If you want something with more magnets, do it girl! 

Starting at the top of your design, measure down and mark every 6″. Do this on both edges of your design. Then, using a straight edge, like a level or a scrap of wood, connect the rows.

Because our boards are 16″ wide, the math works out perfectly to have 4 magnets on each row spaced 4″ apart.


We dont want them to be right on the edges right?!

So we’re going to split that 4″ measurement in half. Measure in 2″ and mark. Then measure 4″ for each mark after that. That will give you the correct spacing, and a 2″ buffer from the edge! Best of both worlds!!

Do this on every 3rd row, and then connect each column using the straight edge.

Where the lines intersect is where the magnets will go!

Drilling the Holes

This is the trickiest part of the whole project, drilling deep enough that the magnets will be powerful enough to hold stuff, without going too deep and accidentally drilling through your board.

If you are using the 10mm magnets linked in this post ,the drill bit size that you’ll want is 7/16. This is a super standard size and comes in every drill bit set. If you are using different size magnets, you’ll need a different size bit. Pick one that is just a tiny bit larger than the magnet size!

If you can, I HIGHLY recommend using a Drill Bit Stop Collar. It’s a ring that you put around and tighten to your drill bit. It makes it so that your bill bit can only go so far into the wood and gives you near perfect results every time.

I didnt have one on hand, so I used a piece of painters tape to mark the depth. Which worked well enough, but you have to be on high alert. There were a few holes that I drilled that were teetering on the brink of disaster. (If you use this method, I recommend putting your hand on the opposite side of the wood and drilling slowly, that way you’ll feel the bit before it breaks through to the other side.

Drill into your wood so that there is 1/8″ remaining. 

Set the Magnets

This is the easy and incredibly satisfying part! Put a magnet into the hole, it should fit perfectly! Place another magnet on the opposite (face) side of your piece. This will hold the back magnet tightly against the wood.

Fill the holes with wood glue and let it dry at least overnight before removing the magnets on the face of the board. I left mine on for about 15 hours!

Add Edging (Optional!)

We added Edging to our piece to cover the exposed edge of plywood. I am normally ALL FOR the plywood layers, but for some reason I wasnt feeling it with this one. Edging is a veneer that matches the plywood. When you iron it on, it makes it look like your wood is a solid piece and a little more finished. Completely personal preference!

Hanging Your Board

You’ve got a few options when it comes to hanging your magnetic wood memo board. You can use a keyhole router bit to cut keyholes into the back. This is a great way to hang it if you are planning on moving it around, or like to change things up a lot.

If you have a spot that this is going to stay for the long and foreseeable future you can do what we did and use finish nails through the face of it.

First find your studs. This is super important, especially if you are using finish nails to hang it. (This is THE BEST stud finder I’ve ever used if you need one!) You’ll want to remember where these are. The easiest way that we do that is measuring from the corner and writing down the measurements.

Centering Your Board

Find and mark where the piece is going to hang. Ours was centered on the wall, so we found and marked the center of the board at the bottom. Then I measured and marked the center of the wall on the baseboard. When I lined the two marks up, voila! the board is centered. 

Using a finish nail, nail into the stud (this is where your written down measurement comes in handy!) in the most inconspicuous place. We always do the very bottom, and the very top. Human nature wants to do it right in the middle, but you’ll see it, soooooo don’t do that. If you want, you can use wood filler to cover the nail holes. 

That’s it!! You are all done friend, make sure if you complete this project that you tag #myvintagerevivals and tag me in your photo @vintagerevivals! I can’t wait to see them!!

Also, this goes without saying, but please keep the magnets out of reach of small children who might put them in their mouth. If you’ve got a little one, maybe hold off on this project until they are older. They can be harmful if swallowed!



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Mandi <![CDATA[Couch Build Pt. 2 + Upholstery Hacks from a Pro!]]> 2020-03-19T20:15:06Z 2020-03-19T17:36:03Z Upholstery is one of those projects that can get overwhelming really quickly. But more-so it can get $$$$ in a matter of a single google search. The thing with upholstery is that it’s not impossible, you just need some tips

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Upholstery is one of those projects that can get overwhelming really quickly. But more-so it can get $$$$ in a matter of a single google search. The thing with upholstery is that it’s not impossible, you just need some tips from a pro that will make it 100x easier and guess what today’s post is all about!? UPHOLSTERY!


If you’ve been following along, we decided to build a couch. Not just a couch, like the most beautiful couch of all time. We partnered with Sunbrella to tackle this project because they are the gold standard in outdoor/indoor fabric and I have tips from the cutest upholsterer I know, my friend Linds from Mox and Molly.

 This tutorial/post is going to be based on our cushions being under a covered patio or for indoor use. If you are using them in full outdoor open to the elements exposed conditions, your foam and interior stuffing is going to be different! I’ve got more info for you at the bottom of this post!

For this project you’ll need 6 yards (Sunbrella fabric has a width of 55″, keep this in mind if you are using a different brand of fabric, the width may vary!!) We used Blend Cactus for our couch.

Here is your cushion making cut list!

One of the most forehead slapping revelations that I think a lot of us that attempt upholstery have is when it comes to cushion shape. I wanted the cushions to have a pinched overstuffed pillow vibe. It’s easy to think that you can make that happen by the way the fabric wraps around the cushion, but the reality is that there are some really intentional foam decisions that have to be made when you are working on couch upholstery.

Keep in mind that these materials are ideal for indoor conditions or for under a covered patio.

First we needed materials. The thick blue foam is from (wait for it) HOME DEPOT. I know, you shouldn’t be surprised at this point but you are right?! They sell it in large pieces for about $20. You’ll just need one for the cushions for the couch build. The measurements in this post are specific for the couch build, but you are free to use them and modify the measurements to fit your project!

Foam Base

Start by cutting your foam to 28.5 x 36.5,  then cut a bevel on the bottom. This will help the shape of the pillow become what I had in mind. If we didnt bevel the edge, it would have a boxier shape.

Wrap the foam in upholstery batting (you can find this at stores like JoAnn) this helps soften the edges of the foam and hide corners that might be visible without it. Use a spray adhesive to attach the foam and batting together. 

Down Filled Top Cushion

The next step is to make the down filled top cushion. This plush guy adds height and roundness to the shape and makes it so comfy to sit on! 

Lindsey’s Supply Hacks:

  • Buy your dense foam at Home Depot
  • If you need down, head to your local TJ Maxx and buy all the ugly clearance down pillows! You’ll save SO MUCH!!
  • Only use spray adhesive outside. Especially if you are making down pillows next. Otherwise you’ll end up with feathers stuck to everything!!
  • Use a box or garbage can that can hold your down insert. Cut a small hole in the pillow and gently and slowly push the feathers out. This will minimize the feathers spreading everywhere!


Stacked Cushion Envelope

Once you have your down topper and base foam ready to go, you have the option of putting them in a removable slip cover. This isnt necessary, but it will help keep things lined up nicely and can help add a waterproof layer if you are keeping the couch outside.

You’ll notice on our cut list that it is one long piece of fabric, this is to diminish any seams.

Sew your coat zipper to the both ends and zip it together, this will give you one large continuous loop of fabric. Fold the fabric in half with the zipper running down the center of your rectangle. Sew the loop closed on both ends. This will ensure that you dont have a seam running down the middle of your envelope! If you want to add a waterproof spray, this is the time to make that happen. You can find it at any home improvement store/ store with camping gear!

Final Fabric Cover

Now it’s time to finish off your cushion! I cannot express enough how magical Sunbrella Fabric is. If you need a refresher of why I love it with my whole heart, you can check out this post! In short, it’s magic and every soft surface needs to be covered in it.

When you’ve made your cuts, attach the zipper to both sides of the back fabric and sew everything together! To get the little edge detail that we used, you’ll just do a quick straight stitch all along the edges. So simple and adds a ton of style!

Down Filled Back Cushions

The back cushions are easy peasy to make. All you need is down feathers, muslin, and your beautiful Sunbrella fabric.

Cut the muslin into 2 pieces that are 39 x 18″. Just like you filled and closed the larger cushions, you’ll do the same with these. 

Cut the Sunbrella fabric so that it measures (1) 39 x 18 and (2) 39 x 9″. Sew everything together and finish it off with the edge top stitch!

Outdoor Filling Info

If you are building your cushions to weather the well, weather, you’ll want to use materials that are specific to those intense conditions. There are a lot of different options, everything from traditional outdoor batting and foam to a product called “Flow Through” foam that allows water to easily drain out. 

I highly recommend that you pull your cushions inside when there are wet weather conditions, it extends the life of the materials no matter what you use, or use a waterproof cover when you arent using them!

Check out the rest of the posts in this series!

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Mandi <![CDATA[DIY Platform Couch Tutorial]]> 2020-03-19T17:42:44Z 2020-03-19T17:34:13Z There are a lot of things that I’ve looked at and thought “Hm. I could make that.” right?! Bookshelves, Art, tables, even a rug (OMG remember that?!) But one project that I havent had the guts to tackle is a

The post DIY Platform Couch Tutorial appeared first on Vintage Revivals.


There are a lot of things that I’ve looked at and thought “Hm. I could make that.” right?! Bookshelves, Art, tables, even a rug (OMG remember that?!) But one project that I havent had the guts to tackle is a couch. Not a bench, like a full on couch. I was a weenie, but guess what!? WE BUILT A COUCH!! And it was so much less painful than I thought it would be! Do you want to build one too? Of course you do! Let’s get into it!

For years I’ve wanted to build a couch, I’ve saved tons of inspiration over the years and they always have the same thing in common, a platform base. When I was super into Mid Century design a few years ago I wanted to do one with little peg legs and even collected a few legs that are tucked away in a storage unit. But when the Merc came into my life my taste shifted into something more traditional+modern, and a little boho. So naturally my dream couch build also shifted. When Sunbrella reached out about partnering on an outdoor project I knew my time for an epic couch build had arrived!

Here’s the thing about outdoor furniture, it has to be durable. And (of course) furniture should be beautiful no matter where it is. So I set myself on a mission to show just how far we can take it. Now that the build is over I’m stuck with a dilemma, I love the couch SO MUCH that I want it somewhere that I can use it day in and day out, like in my living room, or as my bed. I guess it’s a good thing that Sunbrella fabric is just as perfect indoors as it is out. What do you think?! Should we keep it outside or bring it in!?

First things first, you’ll need your materials. For this couch we used maple. Now, before the internet police get involved, let me be the first to acknowledge that I am fully aware that maple isnt the most idea wood for outdoor furniture. Our couch isnt going to be outside year round and it’s going to live under our covered patio. If you are planning on keeping yours outside year round, you’ll want to use a more weather resistant wood like Cedar, Redwood, or Teak. If you are building this for indoor use, a hardwood like oak or maple is what you’ll want to use!


  • 3 – 1x8x8 boards
  • 3 – 1 ¾” diameter dowel x 8’
  • 2 – 1” diameter dowel x 8’
  • 1 – 1x4x8 board
  • 1 – 1x2x8 board


  • 2 – 1×8 @ 82” (frame front and back)
  • 3 – 1×8 @ 12 ½” (frame cross supports)
  • 3 – 1×4 @ 25 ½” – both ends 45 degree bevel not parallel (frame / leg supports)
  • 6 – 1 ¾” dowel @ 12 ¾” (legs)
  • 2 – 1 ¾” dowel @ 15” – one end 45 degree miter (arm supports)
  • 2 – 1 ¾” dowel @ 19 1/8” – one end 45 degree miter, one end 45 bevel (arms)
  • 1 – 1 ¾” dowel @ 76 ½” – both ends 45 degree miter not parallel (back support)
  • 8 – 1” dowel @ 15” (vertical dowels)
  • 4 – 1×2 @ 29 ½” (webbing frame long sides)
  • 4 – 1×2 @ 9 ¼” (wedding frame short sides)


Step 1: Create the frame

Using wood glue and dowel joinery, build the frame of the couch. 

Using dowels to join the wood together makes it look beautiful and adds strength.

Start by making a template for your holes (you’ll want them spaced about 4 inches apart) Use this template to drill holes everywhere that the boards will be connecting.


Step 2: Attach Supports to the Frame

Using wood glue and 1 1/4″ screws, attach the support pieces to the underside of the frame. This not only adds support, but gives you the perfect spot to secure the legs!

Step 3: Attach Legs

You are going to attach the legs using a 3″ hanger bolt. A hanger bolt is a double ended screw. You’ll pre-drill the hole into your frame supports, and into the dowel leg and then screw them together!

How to mark the center of a dowel HACK!

You are going to be predrilling a lot into your dowels and you’ll need to find the dead center to do it correctly. There is a super easy way to do it!

Grab your tape measure, put it over the top of the dowel and measure the diameter.

With your tape still in place, mark 1/16″ less than half on the dowel. Rotate the dowel slightly and mark again at 1/16″ less than half. Keep rotating and marking until you are back at the beginning. (I usually rotate it 5 times) Take the tape measure off, connect the dots, and VOILA! A perfect mark of exactly where you need to drill!

Step 4: Assemble the Arms


The trickiest part of this step is cutting the 2 different angles into either end of the large dowel. You don’t want the dowel to rotate AT ALL while you are cutting these angles. We attached the dowel to a support board while we made the cuts so that  we knew it wouldn’t move. You’ll have to fill the holes, but it is SO WORTH IT.

Attach the arms to the frame from the underside using 2 1/2″ wood screws.

Step 5:  Add the Vertical Dowels to the Back Support Dowel

I feel like I’m saying dowel a lot. 

The easiest way to make sure your 1″ dowels are lined up perfectly is to use a chalk line. Snap your line (don’t worry! It will come off the wood!) and mark the spacing after. See the blue line in the picture below? We also temporarily attached this dowel to a 2×4 so that it didnt shift or rotate.

We used a drill press to create our 1″ holes. If you dont have access to one, you can absolutely use your drill + forstner drill bit but be EXTRA aware that your drill needs to be lined up and straight so that you arent drilling a wonky hole.

We didnt screw these dowels into place, we opted to just use wood glue because it gave us a little wiggle room to make sure that they were perfectly lined up when we were attaching them to the base. Wait until your base is prepped and ready to go before you add the glue, we dont want to add it too early and risk setting before we’re ready.

Step 6:  Attach to the frame


Predrill 1” diameter hole at 3/8” deep for each vertical dowel.  This will give your dowel something to rest in. 


Secure back top to arms using 1 ½” wood screws. 

Then secure from underside using 2” wood screws.

Your couch frame is almost done!!

Step 7: Add Webbing

One of the most frequent questions that I got while building this couch was “why dont you just make the base solid?” Which is such a great question right?? Let me tell you! Because this couch will be used outside, the last thing that we want is to have standing water on it. If we build it out of a solid base, picture what would happen when it rains. The water will sit on top of the wood, stuck between the frame and the cushions. It will damage the wood, and also the cushions. We need ventilation to keep things damage/mold/pest free! But obviously we cant just have giant holes right where your bum goes. Which is where webbing steps in and becomes the hero of our story.

To build your webbing inserts, you want to build a frame that is the same size as your hole minus a thickness of webbing on each side. 

You want the webbing to have a double thickness where you attach it. 

We are wrapping the webbing around the outside of the frame, so start by lining the cut edge on your frame with the length of the webbing in the center. Staple it in place. 

Fold the webbing over and staple it again.

Wrap it around the frame and staple/fold/staple.

Step 8: Attach the webbing to the couch frame

 Attach the webbing frames by screwing through predrilled holes through panel frame with 2 ½” wood screws.

And that’s it for the frame build! Finish it off by using wood filler to fill the screw holes. I am still on the hunt for the perfect wood protector, but I will update this post as soon as I find it!

Next up, you’ll want to read Part 2: Upholstery!


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Mandi <![CDATA[DIY Outdoor Furniture Reveal]]> 2020-03-19T17:43:48Z 2020-03-19T17:33:29Z Guys!! I am so excited to share the reveal of our DIY outdoor patio furniture with you!! I teamed up with Sunbrella to build a patio set that can weather the weather, but also looks like something you’d want in

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Guys!! I am so excited to share the reveal of our DIY outdoor patio furniture with you!!

I teamed up with Sunbrella to build a patio set that can weather the weather, but also looks like something you’d want in your living room. It’s true, I’m super conflicted about where to actually have these pieces live because they are so beautiful I want to sit on them every day of my life.

Why Sunbrella is the ULTIMATE Upholstery Fabric

If you’ve ever researched anything about outdoor fabric, you’ve heard of Sunbrella. They are the gold standard when it comes to durable fabric that can withstand the elements (we’re also adding kids and pets to the elements category) while still looking and feeling like real fabric. For the purpose of this content we’re talking about it in relation to the outdoors, but it is absolutely what you want to use if you are doing any sort of upholstery, indoor or outdoor.

I’ll bet that most of us have had the misfortune of experiencing less than quality outdoor fabrics. They feel plasticy, and scratchy, and like you might as well have sewn your cushions out of a tarp. Sunbrella fabric is the exact opposite. If I didnt know better, I would go on record saying that Sunbrella fabric is made by elves. It is MAGICAL. You would never know hidden inside the beautiful weaves and soft texture is a myriad of magical properties.

Sunbrella is mold, mildew, and water resistant. It’s also fade resistant. The color is applied throughout the entire string and it will hold fast to the color for many many years. Sunbrella fabric can be cleaned very easily with a little soap and water, and in extreme cases can even be pressure washed.

Oh and they have hundreds of colors and patterns to choose from, so you’re bound to find something that you’ll love. I’ll share some of my faves below!

The first design dilemma that we tackled was the ultimate faux pas of matchy matchy. For some reason that is what outdoor furniture defaults to.

I spent literal hours combing through all of the selections, my favorite line is the Blend line. It has such great knobby texture and colors. I chose Cactus for our build but the whole line has incredible colors that are a little muted, but still impactful.  I am equally as obsessed with Clay (the best terra cotta color!), Honey,  and Sage (if you want something more neutral).

Instead of using the same fabric for the chairs, I opted for something funner, a campy plaid called Simplicity Garden. I had lots of favorites that you should check out if you are looking for something with a pattern. Capra II, Artistry Indigo, Figari Red, and Mina Classic.

Speaking of side chairs, I actually found the inspiration for them on Sunbrella’s website! 

I love how these pieces flow together. They’re eclectic and special, and man alive they make my heart want to burst! Want to make your own?! Check out the tutorials below!

Couch Build Pt. 1
Couch Build Pt. 2 + Upholstery Hacks from a Pro

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Mandi <![CDATA[DIY Raw Hardwood Floors]]> 2020-02-28T18:28:38Z 2020-02-28T18:28:38Z YOU GUYS. This post has been literal years in the making!! I am dishing everything you could want to know about our DIY Raw Hardwood floors!! When we decided to use straight from the lumber yard basic 3/4″ maple as

The post DIY Raw Hardwood Floors appeared first on Vintage Revivals.


YOU GUYS. This post has been literal years in the making!! I am dishing everything you could want to know about our DIY Raw Hardwood floors!!

When we decided to use straight from the lumber yard basic 3/4″ maple as flooring in the Merc it did a few things. 1. It gave us unlimited options for patterns (yay!!) 2. It unleashed a million opinions from concerned readers. 

I don’t think that it was so much the type of wood/technique we were using as it was the fact that we were leaving them COMPLETELY RAW.

If you’re new, you might have gasped. It’s cool, we’re used to it.

See I kind of have this weird thing that makes me ask why. Like, why are things are the way they are? For example, why do we pay $$$$ for perfectly distressed wood floors that look like they’ve been around for a hundred years and then make them indestructible?

In my mind, the magic of patina is the life that it bears witness of.

I get that this is a super unpopular opinion but it’s the exact reason that we decided to do completely raw floors in our house. I wanted to see what would happen if we just left them open to the elements of living. And that is exactly what we did.

So let’s get into it!

For those that are new, here is a 15 second recap of our renovation situation. Time me!

3 years ago we bought a 100 yr old Mercantile store (the Merc as the locals call it) It was in complete disrepair and needed SO MUCH LOVE.


We spent almost a year renovating 1/2 of the 4200 sq/ft aka Phase 1 and moved in. That was almost 2 years ago (where has the time gone!?) I wanted to keep it as true to the time period as I could handle, so we did lots of traditional finishes and accents, with my signature out of the box style mixed in. We are starting the second half of the renovation in the next few months, and feeling VERY excited about it. You can get completely caught up from the beginning here.

Phew. Did I make it?

So back to the floors. It just felt really gross(?) to put in laminate or engineered flooring. There is something so special about an old building like the Merc, like the energy and life from all of those years are part of it. From the old brick to the un-level floors, to the original windows, everything showed signs of life in the most authentic way. I wanted to embrace it, ya know?

And because this is literally our job, I thought meh, if it’s a horrible idea it wont be that big of a deal to change them out.

Using The Right Kind of Wood

We ordered 3/4 solid maple boards from the lumber yard, had our awesome friend with a woodshop full of tools straighten them, cut them to a 6″ width and plane them nice and smooth. It was one of the best choices in the whole world to not take that on ourselves. 

The reason I chose to use maple is because we did a project similar to this 6 years ago with our vintage trailer The Nugget. The $80 floor DIY was one of my favorite projects of the whole renovation and it taught us a lot. Most importantly, not to use a soft wood like pine for a project like this. (For something that doesnt get as much use like a trailer pine is fine, but it has a tendency to splinter and dent easily, which can cause more splintering.) For a floor in your house that gets walked on every day, having hard wood is a big deal!

Maple is one of the hardest woods available. I love it’s soft warm color and light grain, if you’ve been kickin around Vintage Revivals for any length of time, you know this is truuuuue!

We used it on 4 floors in the Merc (3 bedrooms, and my office) each space has a different pattern and is like a special snowflake.

How are they doing?

I absolutely 100% no hesitation would do it again. I LOVE them.

They are exactly what I pictured when I dreamed this project up. We havent really taken any special liberties when it comes to the way we treat them. The spots that have really high traffic have a little bit of a sheen to them and there was an incident with black paint water that was spilled that needed to be sanded, but man I just cant get enough of them!


Do they look perfect?

Nope. There are spots where the grain in the wood changes direction and it tends to look grayer/dirtier there (maybe if we sanded them in those spots it would be different?) But I’m not mad in the least. It always makes me feel better to know that if we need to we can just sand the whole thing smooth and put a sealer on it, but for now I am feeling great about it.

Are Raw Wood Floors Right for Everyone?

That’s a no from me dawg. I LOVE ours, but I also dont stress about a lot of stuff. If you do, these arent the floors for you. They dont scratch or dent (even in places like my office where the chair is always in the same spot) but stuff can/will stain them.

Would We Ever Clear Coat/Seal Them?

Right now, I would say no. But if you want to do this DIY and seal them, I would recommend a product like Rubio Monocoat. It’s liquid so it will fill all of the gaps, as well as add protection to the surface.

How Do I Clean Raw Wood Floors?

I spot treat a lot, like if something is spilled, or a coloring project gets out of hand. I love using Magic Erasers, and a damp microfiber cloth. For spots that need some more TLC (like the spilled paint or something that doesnt come up with a spot treatment) we’ve been known to pull out the sander. 

Do They Splinter?

Maple is such a hard wood that we have had ZERO like literally zero splintering. Not one sliver. If you use a softer wood I bet that can happen easier, you might be pulling out the sander more frequently.


Have any other questions? Leave them below and I’ll update this post!


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Mandi <![CDATA[DIY Cane Wall Panels | Caning Furniture]]> 2020-02-13T21:59:32Z 2020-02-13T21:59:32Z Raise your hand if you love caning! Keep your hand raised if you have NO IDEA how to use it! Get excited and settle in because this tutorial on how to cane is going to blow your mind! Caning is

The post DIY Cane Wall Panels | Caning Furniture appeared first on Vintage Revivals.


Raise your hand if you love caning! Keep your hand raised if you have NO IDEA how to use it! Get excited and settle in because this tutorial on how to cane is going to blow your mind! Caning is at the forefront of design trends now, and around my circles I havent seen a real tutorial for how to cane furniture. There’s been a lot of hack and glue and staples, but real life caning is a VERY doable DIY. Ready to learn how?!

What is Caning?

Caning in it’s most basic form is a weaving technique used on furniture.

The weave is made out of thin strips of cane and woven into different patterns. 

There are a few ways to cane, the most time intensive is weaving each individual piece of cane onto the furniture. Bless your soul if you’ve got that kind of patience. We’re not doing that. For our project we’re using something called Cane Webbing. It’s pre-woven and comes sort of like a piece of fabric. 

How Caning Works

The caning is probably wildly different than any other DIY you’ve tackled. (Don’t worry we’ll go over this step by step!) but here is the birds-eye view of how caning is done!

  1. A frame is built that has a groove cut around the face of it.
  2. Wet cane webbing is forced into the groove
  3. A small amount of glue is put onto the caning.
  4. A piece of reed splining is pressed in the center of the fold. It holds the caning in place and tight after it dries.
  5. The excess caning is trimmed off and the cane webbing dries taught.

There are no staples, or nails, just a little bit of glue!

Learning to Cane

When Real Simple asked me to design the master bedroom for their 2019 RS House I was ALL OVER IT. But I knew that I wanted a statement making DIY in the space cause that’s sort of my thing.

There were a few requirements.

  1. It had to be awesome. Like the greatest thing I’ve ever done.
  2.  It had to be able to be shipped across the country
  3. It had to be able to be installed in less than 3 days.

No biggie. 

While I was thinking about it, the caned bench that Court built for our entryway caught my attention and I knew that caning was exactly what I needed to do!

First thing was getting all of the measurements and figuring out the spacing and size for the panels. Once I had those I ordered my supplies and we got started.

Using The Right Wood

Using the right wood can be a pretty big deal. When you are installing the caning and it’s wet it’s pretty loose and saggy not unlike my middle aged body. But as it dries it tightens up and the larger expanse of caning, the tighter it can get. Which in turn can cause the wood frame to bow inward.

For our frames we used Maple (one of the hardest/strongest woods) and even that bowed a little bit! We were shocked. To fix it we re-wet the caning and added a temporary support across the center of the frame. We kept it in place until the caning was completely dry and then removed it.

I can only imagine how easily soft wood like pine would bow. We definitely recommend using hardwood for a caning project! The center cross piece in the photo below is the temporary support to prevent the frame from bowing!

Supplies You’ll Need

Cane Webbing

 Cane webbing is made out of thin strips of cane and that is woven into different patterns. The most common pattern is called Open Mesh. The Cane Webbing we used is a Medium Danish Weave. It’s got a killer Scandinavian modern vibe and makes me want to build an entire house out of it to live in without my children.


Reed Spline is the wedge-shaped reed that is used to hold the cane webbing into the groove around the frame. To determine the thickness and size of your spline, you’ll measure the width of your groove. Easy peasy right?! The most common size of spline is 3/16 which is about the thickness of 1+ 1/2 saw blades.


We tried 3 different types of glue and Loctite Go2 All Purpose ended up being our favorite. You could also try Wood Glue, or Elmer’s Glue. The one downside of this type of glue is that it’s not water soluble, meaning if you have to pull out the caning and replace it, it’s a dig job. But it was way less mess than wood glue, and it has a little bit of give when it dries, which I think helps the caning as it sucks in


So you guys know that we like to do things our own way right? The tool we loved the most is 1000% not intended for caning use, but it was awesome. It’s a Carpet Tucker. It potentially might not be great for smaller projects like chair seats because it’s so large and flat. But we tried SO MANY THINGS and this worked so well for us! Maybe because we were doing such large expanses? It’s worth a try IMHO!


Razor Blade

Where to buy Cane Supplies?

I’ve scoured the bellies of the internet and the best place that I’ve found is Frank’s Cane and Rush. Fair warning, it’s not a normal e-commerce site, so things take a little longer, but they’ve got GREAT customer service. I’ve ordered from them twice and its been wonderful both times. They have the best prices and selection of any place I’ve found!

How To Cane

*I feel like I need to start this tutorial with a disclaimer. We watched a ton of videos and read a lot of articles on the right way to cane. But like everything else we do, it had a hefty learning curve (which I love because then I can tell you guys what went wrong!) This tutorial is for the way that we found worked best. It’s a little outside of the universally accepted way and using different tools, but it worked great for us!

Building The Frame

Start off by cutting the wood for your frame. This is totally personal preference on the size, our frames are 1.5″ wide. Keep in mind that if you are doing a large panel wall like we did that it will visually double that thickness when you butt 2 of the panels together!

Once your wood is cut to width it’s time get get your groove on!

There are a few ways to cut the groove into your wood. Our favorite is with the table saw. You could potentially use a router, but a table saw is definitely your best bet. You want at least 1/4″ between the groove* and the edge of the frame. Just run the entire length of the board through the saw to cut the groove, then cut it apart for the actual frame. Our total frame size was 26″x33.75″. Yours will probably be different depending on the size of wall that you are covering. 😉

**Remember, you’re cutting a groove, not cutting the full way through the wood! Lower your saw blade so that it is cutting 1/16″ deeper into the wood than the depth of your reed spline.

In order for the grooves to line up correctly, you’ll need to build your frame with 45 degree angled corners. Attach the frame pieces together with wood glue and finishing nails and give them a chance to cure. The groove should be on the inside of the frame.

How To Attach the Cane Webbing

Caning is incredibly pliable when it’s wet, you can fold it right in half and it wont break. If it’s dry though it’s a totally different story. 

Get Your Caning Wet

The first step in caning is to soak the webbing. We filled up our bathtub and put all of the panel pieces in to soak. They only need about 15 minutes to be ready to go, but can sit in the water for hours as well without doing any damage. It’s also a great idea to keep a spray bottle on hand so that you can mist the caning if it starts to dry out!

Caning has a front and back side. The front side usually has some sort of coating or finish on it. Being the natural wood lovers that we are, we rebelliously used the back side as the front because it is unfinished and matched our maple better! Basically this is me telling you that you can do whatever works best for your style and project!

Line Up Your Caning

Hands down one of the MOST FRUSTRATING things of this entire DIY is when you get everything installed and then realize that it’s crooked (been there done that.) Let’s prevent that from happening to you ok?!

The weave pattern that we used was a combo of vertical and horizontal pieces so it couldn’t have been easier to keep things lined up.

Line the caning up so that one of the pieces that runs parallel to the groove is sitting directly over it. This is going to be your guide. As you push the cane into the grooves, you want to push directly on top of this piece, keeping the line straight. It’s super easy to get off if you arent paying attention. 

To push the caning into the groove, you’ll need something that is dull and sort of thin. It also needs to be strong. They make tools that are specifically for this, we ended up trying a bunch of different things and ultimately this carpet tucker from was our favorite.

We did this in 2 passes. If you get too aggressive the caning might break. Starting with the rounded edge of the carpet tucker, we rolled the caning into the groove. After the first pass, we went back and pushed it in deeper.

See how in the below picture the caning comes up at almost a right angle? That is what you want!

Add A Bead of Glue

Add a running bead of glue to the groove. Make sure its not overspilling! .

Add The Splining

Splining is a thin piece of reed that has a little bit of taper on it. You push it into place and it keeps the caning from pulling out of the grooves.

(Sidenote) the splining that we had on had when we replicated this tutorial for pictures is a little too small for the size of groove that we cut. The right size will sit flush or slightly above the face of the caning. Ours was down inside a little, but the technique is the same.

Cut it to length with 45 degree angles on each end. 

Line it up and press it into place with your fingers.

Press it down with the carpet tucker (or you can hammer it if you want!)

When the spline is in place, it’s time to move to the next groove! This is also different than traditional caning techniques where you line every thing up and use wedges to hold the caning in place before you tuck it in and add the spline. The reason you would do this is to make sure that everything is straight, but with the type of weave we used it wasnt a worry so much.

Pull the caning tight enough over the frame that its smooth, but DON’T WORRY IF THE DAMP CANING IS A LITTLE LOOSE!! As the caning dries it will tighten up significantly! In fact, we did not have one single panel that had loose caning after it dried and there were some I was worried about!

When all 4 sides of your frame is caned, take a razor blade and trim the excess caning off.

Assembling The Panels

Like I mentioned at the beginning of this post, we built these in a really manageable size so that they could be transported to NYC. When it was time to install the focal wall, all we had to do was screw them together!

We started by laying out a full vertical row of panels on the floor face down. All of the attaching was done on the back of the panels so it was hidden!

Using wood clamps, we clamped 2 panels together and used wood screws to secure them. We did all of this before we removed the support pieces.

After all of the vertical panels were built, we stood them up and screwed them together, adding one at a time along the wall.

Like every house ever, the floors and ceiling werent straight, so if you find yourself in the same situation, build your panels to fit the smaller measurement and cheat the spacing on the floor leaving a bigger/uneven gap there. That way you can cover it up with baseboard and no one will be the wiser!  You can see how we did that in the photo above!

When it was time to attach the panels to the wall we did that by using finishing nails through the face of it. The panels fit really snug, so we just use a handful of nails to keep it tight against the wall!

If you want to see the rest of the space, and get sources for all of the goods we used,  check out the links below! 


Real Simple House 2019

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Mandi <![CDATA[Our Anasazi Experience Pt. 1: Ivie’s Interview]]> 2020-02-05T22:36:01Z 2020-02-05T22:36:01Z I have sat down countless times to write this blog post, and it was like my fingers just wouldnt work. I have had so many emails from parents that are worried and families that are in crisis that I know

The post Our Anasazi Experience Pt. 1: Ivie’s Interview appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

I have sat down countless times to write this blog post, and it was like my fingers just wouldnt work. I have had so many emails from parents that are worried and families that are in crisis that I know it’s time to share something. Even if we’re still close to it, even though we dont have a 20/20 perspective yet, and even though we are still very much finding our footing and working through stuff.

I know that this is a very public forum. Sharing this is something that we decided as a family. We arent putting our daughter “on blast”. She very bravely opened up about going to Anasazi before we even considered sharing it. I dont know about you but at 16 I was for sure not woke enough to know that sharing the hard thing I’m struggling with could lighten someone else’s burden. As a mother there is nothing in this world that I could be more proud of her for. 

This post like all of the posts we share about our story with addiction, is about hope. I mean, what’s the point of going through rough stuff if in the end it doesnt help anyone? Here is our experience. We hope with our whole hearts that it can help one of you! 

Our 16 yr old daughter was struggling. Without going into to too much detail (honestly it’s irrelevant now that we’ve experienced Anasazi) we were completely lost with how to help. For years we had tried all of the things that people suggested and it just wasnt helping her. Knowing what I know now, there was no way that she could change without our family changing as well, but that is what we kept trying to do. Change her, fix her. The reality is that our whole family was in crisis. We ALL needed to be changed.

I had some pretty inspired revelation that she needed to go to the Anasazi wilderness program. (You can read more about that here!)

The Anasazi Foundation is a non-profit wilderness therapy program for teens and adults. It is grounded in Native American traditions and outdoor survivalist methods. Anasazi has their own language for stuff, so as I use it I’ll make sure to clarify what it means! The YoungWalkers (as the kids are called) live in the wilds of Arizona for 7-8 weeks and it is one of the most inspired programs I have ever experienced. They are taken out of the world and given tools that help them see themselves differently. 

Those that have been following along for a while know that Court and I LOVE the LDS 12 Step program, I love Anasazi just as much. It is inspired and saved our family. In fact we love and believe in it so much that every single one of our kids will be going, whether they are struggling or not. 

The incredible thing about Anasazi is that it isnt just sending your kid off to get “fixed”. As parents and family members we are also doing really intense work. Even though we’re not physically walking like they are, we are walking in our hearts right along with them. They have a powerful workshop that you get to attend when you drop your Youngwalker off that changed my whole outlook on life. 

Anasazi believes that every child is good; that they have a Seed of Greatness. The Trailwalkers (the staff that lives and hikes with the Youngwalkers) are so positive. They understand the sacred responsibility that we as parents have trusted them with, and they love those kids hard. They magnify every good thing they see in that child in ways that only an outsider full of compassion and a deep desire for connection can. They see and focus on things that we as parents are missing in our every day frustrated interactions. They dont know anything about the Youngwalker’s past or situation, they go in completely open to learning about them and treating them with compassion and love. 

Each Youngwalker has a Shadow (Therapist) that they meet with once a week. The Shadow goes out on the trail and has sittings (sessions) with them. Court and I also met with him via phone once a week for a report on Ive and to help us with the things that we were working on. Shadow G is part of our family forever. We love him!!

Life on the Trail

I did a little interview with Ive about what life on the trail was like. I wanted to share it from her perspective. Because TBH if I just listed the facts of what they did and didnt have, and did and didnt do, its intense. But no one has died, so that’s good right?!

After some of her answers I chime in with a little more detail/clarity, these notes will start with an asterisk*.

If someone is sending or thinking about sending their child out on the trail, what do you want them to know about it?

Um, that it sucks at first but it gets easier. Ya, it pretty much just sucks (laughs) but it’s a really good experience and you wont regret going. Send them!

In the beginning, what was the hardest thing about being on the trail?

Not being able to see my family. Not knowing anyone in my band yet.

The band is group of people that you’re stuck with. (laughs) You have to learn to like them and work together. It was hard because you dont want to be stuck in a place where you dont like the people you are around cause that makes you unhappy and its unpleasant.

There are a lot of different personalities in the band. Some people I got along with really easily and some people were harder. I met my best friend when I first walked into the office. Meeting her was the best thing of my whole life. We left on the trail together and came home at the same time. If you are going out there I would try really hard to find a friend, because some people are weird. Parents, you’ll get the stories when they get home. That’s all I’m going to say. There are lots of different reasons that people go out on the trail. Some people didnt really have a huge reason, and some were using it like rehab, most of us were somewhere in the middle.

Being in the band taught me that we have the choice to learn to love people even though you want to punch them in the ass. (laughs)

*A band is what they call the group of kids, they keep boys and girls separate. The bands range in size but aren’t larger than 9 Youngwalkers. 

Tell me about the hiking.

It sucks. You hike almost every day for 2 months. But it feels so good when you get to your camp spot and you can take off your 50 pound pack and lay down…on rocks. (laughing) It’s fun when you have a friend. Hiking taught me to push through hard things. Cause when you wanted to give up you couldn’t, or else you wouldn’t get where you needed to go.

Tell me about the pack.

The pack is a pain, emotionally and physically. It’s really heavy and you have to learn to pack it. I’m making this whole experience sound really bad, IT’S GOOD I PROMISE. In my pack I had a sleeping bag, tarp, fire set, food pack, burrito, books, extra clothes, toiletries. It’s heavy as hell.

Ivie’s first week on the trail

*The pack has everything the YW needs for the week, it’s not a traditional hiking backpack like we are used to, they use the things in the pack to actually build it. Everything gets wrapped in the tarp and the straps of the pack are made out of the burrito (the burrito is a canvas cocoon with snaps, they can use it for a million different things!)

Tell me about the food.

It tastes um-not good at first, I’m like why am I eating rice? But by the end you are a gourmet chef. You get really creative with the food pack. I loved Beanie Mac, Ash Cakes with butter and brown sugar, Beans and Rice, Cheesy Beanie Rice and Cold Gold. 

*Having experienced Ivie’s cooking at Family Camp I can tell you that she did in fact become a chef. They can make anything out of the food pack ingredients if they put their mind to it! She said that they talked about food a lot on the trail, and she had a list of what she wanted to eat when she came home.

Tell me about making fire.

You make fire with a bow and spindle. Its really hard and frustrating. When you very first make the fire it’s like the coolest feeling in the world. Because you’re like damn I just did that. Once you learn how to you feel like a god! Cause you’re just making fire! And once you make it you dont want to stop. 

Tell me about your trail name

A trail name is a name given to you. It represents things that the Trailwalkers see in your personality or things that relate to you. Like an animal, or thing in nature. It speaks to you. I thought it was literally cool, like “Oh wow, you see that in me?” My trail name is Golden Warrior Butterfly. Golden means the I have an essence of light, Warrior means I’m loyal to my friends and family, and Butterfly means that I have the ability to change.

Tell me about the Trailwalkers

The Trailwalkers are really good people. They’re really nice and they treat you like you are their own and they care about you a lot. Some of them are really excited and happy, so you might want to prepare yourself for that. Most of them are really chill. They have different personalities and everyone finds somebody they connect with.

*The trailwalkers walk for a week with the band and then new trailwalkers come in, so the dynamic is always changing but is always full of love. We were able to talk to some of the trailwalkers when they came off after spending the week with Ive. You could feel how much they loved her and it was powerful to hear all of the wonderful things they said about her.

Tell me about your Shadow

Shadow G!! I love that guy. He was my best friend out there. We talked about everything, like, literally you could name anything and I’m positive that we talked about it. I miss him!

What was the hardest part about living on the trail?

Not being able to shower, not seeing my family, hiking everyday, sleeping on the ground and peeing my pants. That sucked really bad.

What was the funnest part about being on the trail?

When we had free days. That was the best! You just got to hang out with everyone and not hike. Cause like, when you’re hiking all the time you dont want to talk. Then youre out of breath and dont want to talk because you have to go slower or stop so you dont make it to your spot. When we had off days you could just sit and talk and get to know everyone.

Do you feel like the trail made you a different person?

Ya, I still pretty much act the same, not the bad stuff though. I dont do that anymore. It made me realize that I didnt need all that stuff I was doing before. It also make me realize that there were people I didnt need in my life. So when I got home I cut all of that stuff out. Oh and not depressed anymore! 

If someone has a kid that is struggling and they are worried that their kid will be mad if they go on the trail what would you tell them?

That the kid will probably be mad. (laughs) I’m not going to lie, there were a lot of people out there that were pissed at first. But if you can, don’t Goon them (Goon means you have a transport company pick them up without their knowledge and take them) It makes the kids more pissed and you’re stuck in the woods. I felt so bad for all the people that were taken like that. Tell them in advance that they are going so they can emotionally and mentally prepare. 

What advice would you have for kids who’s parents are sending them on the trail?

Suck it up because it’s going to be great. It sucks, it sucks so bad. But it’s worth it in the end. Power through!

What did you learn about yourself?

That I’m pretty cool and I’m a lot stronger than I thought I was. You learn a lot about yourself and how strong you are and who you want to become.

Are you glad that you went on the trail?


*Teenagers 🙄

How has it been since you’ve been home?

It’s been good. It’s a lot better than it was before. I mean, it is really hard coming home because you cant be around a lot of people, sound or light, I almost had a panic attack when I got home because my entire family was there and it was a lot of people. (laughs) Love you guys missed you, I promise!

How do you feel our family changed after Anasazi?

I feel like we understand each other more. We try to use our tools to get along and I dont know, it just made us all come together.

Isnt she the best?

This video of meeting her on the trail is the most special thing that I own and if it doesnt give you hope then I dont know what will!



View this post on Instagram


WE GOT OUR GIRL BACK! I can’t wait to tell you all about it, but for the moment we’re soaking up all of her light! @iviegubler @anasazifoundation

A post shared by Mandi Gubler | Fearless DIYer (@vintagerevivals) on


I thought instead of chiming in with all of my thoughts and making this already long post even longer, that I’d give you guys a change to ask some questions and do a follow up post. So feel free to leave them below! 






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Mandi <![CDATA[Floor To Ceiling Built In Bookcases- The ULTIMATE IKEA Billy Bookcase Hack]]> 2020-02-11T13:41:14Z 2020-01-22T21:50:35Z There are a few things that instantly make a room feel special and right. You know? Like BAM! Leveled up. Bookcases do that. Built in bookcases do it to the 100th degree. Today I’m going to show you how we

The post Floor To Ceiling Built In Bookcases- The ULTIMATE IKEA Billy Bookcase Hack appeared first on Vintage Revivals.


There are a few things that instantly make a room feel special and right. You know? Like BAM! Leveled up. Bookcases do that. Built in bookcases do it to the 100th degree. Today I’m going to show you how we took basic Billy Bookcases from IKEA and turned them into the most perfect built in you’ve ever seen. 

When I was designing the Clifford’s office/playroom I knew that we needed some serious storage. I think the default for storage is something with pullout bins right?! Like they are a playroom staple. But it also needed to be beautiful and so this was the best of both worlds! The lower cabinets with solid doors hold all of the boy’s toys and anything else Tash needs to stash, and the upper shelves with glass fronts give us the design element that we are looking for.

So let’s dive into what it takes to use Billy Bookcases to do floor to ceiling built-ins. The first thing that we (I say we because I am in this with you and also because I had to learn it myself!) is that these are not custom. They can be customized, but they come in set widths and heights, so they’re semi customize-able. It also means math is going to come into play in your life. IKEA has a bunch of different widths and heights available and your job is to figure out what combo will work best to give you what you are looking for! 


  1. IKEA Bookcases arent manufactured to be stacked like this. So USE THE BRACKETS. Every IKEA bookcase comes with a bracket that holds it tight against the wall. These are not optional in any way shape or form and need to be installed on every level of bookcase. If you dont use them you are setting yourself up for a very dangerous situation. 

2. If you are stacking bookcases that are meant to be on the floor (meaning they have a kick plate) on top of other bookcases, you’ll have to cut that section off. Otherwise your doors wont line up correctly. I’ll give you the exact measurements to cut off later in the post, and a visual guide but keep that in mind as you are figuring out your heights. 

Figuring out your height:

Measure your ceiling to floor all along the length of the wall. Typically the ceiling or floor isnt level, so it might be a different height from one end of the wall to the other (this was the case at Tash’s) If you dont take measurements in multiple spots you are setting yourself up for failure! The lowest number is the measurement you are going to work off of. (If you worked off of the highest then it will be too tall for the other end of the wall!)

Billy bookcases come in 3 heights. The tallest is 79.5″, the middle is 41.75″, and the shortest is an extender that is 11″. It’s a little bit of a game of mix and match to find out what is best. And keep in mind that you’ll need to cut 3.25″ off of the bottom if you are using a bookcase that has a kick plate on the bottom. (Basically you are cutting everything off below the bottom shelf). 

For Tash’s 11′ ceilings, our combo looked like this, one extender, one 79.5″ and one 41.75″ for each column (we had 3 columns!)



I’ve made you a cheat list though because I love you with my whole freaking heart and gave you the vertical combo for a few standard ceiling heights. These are all within 5″ of the ceiling, some closer, some further away. If your height is further away then you can add a piece of trim at the top and it will look like a million bucks!


If you are ending up with a gap that isnt working out, you’ve got a few options. You can take them as high as you can and call it a day. You can add moulding to the top  to cover the extra few inches. You can modify the extender to shorten it, but you wont be able to use one of the doors (which may or may not be a big deal)

Figuring Out Your Width:

I wish that there were a few standard sizes that I could plug into a formula for you, but alas, you’re kind of on your own for this one. The good news is that IKEA has different widths and you can mix and match to make them work as well! And dont sweat it if your bookcase doesnt reach exactly wall to wall. You’ve got a few options! Rock the “It’s close enough” attitude like we did. Our bookcases didnt reach end to end and I was totally ok with it! As long as it’s centered on the wall you’re golden! You can add trim pieces along the edges (there are a million tutorials on trimming them out!) 

Billy Bookcases are engineered to work with the extender (the 11″ size) and have dowels and everything you need, Allen wrench ready. They arent manufactured to work with larger sizes so that’s where we get creative.

Trimming Your Bookcase:

I know we’re only 800 words into this blog post and I’ve already brought it up a few times, but this part is super important. If you dont trim your bookcase down, it’s going to look like stacked bookcases that arent meant to be stacked. Cutting IKEA furniture is super easy, there is just one trick you need to know. Painters tape is your best friend.

The lacquer finish on IKEA pieces can chip pretty easily when you are running it through a table saw (or using any other saw!) All you need to do to prevent chipping is to put down a piece of painters tape so that the saw blade cuts through it.

It works like magic every time!

You will also need to trim 1/2″ off of your back piece. It doesnt run all the way to the bottom of the bookcase sides, that’s why the measurement is different and something we learned the hard way. YAYYYyyyyyy.

If you are painting the back piece of your bookcase like we did, now is the time! Make sure you do this before you install it, its 100x quicker and looks nicer! I’ve got a killer tutorial on painting furniture if you need tips on that!


Assemble all of your bookcases and have them ready to go! For the bookcases that you cut the bottom off of, you can assemble everything but the base will still be open, similar to the extender pieces. When everything is assembled it’s time to start stacking!

Stacking and Securing:

Start by putting the extender pieces on top of your bookcase. This is easier to do without worrying about the ceiling height (especially if it was a close fit like ours!)

Move the middle (if you’ve got a middle!) base into place on the wall and center it. 

Lift the larger bookcase on top of the base (remember the bottom of this bookcase is still open). Fit the cross shelf inbetween the sides and make sure that they line up with the sides of the base bookcase. Using wood screws, screw in through the side of the bookcase, into the cross piece. (Now if you lifted the upper bookcase up it would have a bottom.) This will give you 2 horizontal pieces right on top of each other, one that is the top of the base, and one that is the bottom of the upper. (You wont notice it at all once the doors are installed!) Screw up through the underside of the top of the base into the second piece in all 4 corners and in the middle. This will secure your upper bookcase to the lower. Add your wall brackets and make sure that you are putting them into studs! 

We repeated this for the other 2 bookcases, the only difference was with the end that was visible from the doorway. Instead of screwing in from the sides, we went up at an angle and caught the side. This made is so that there werent any visible screws.

Check out this timelapse of the whole thing being assembled!


It’s also really important to secure the bookcases to each other. Once they are stacked and in place, screw from the inside of one bookcase into the other to attach them together. Do this multiple times along the height of the shelves.

Attach the other brackets securing the bookcases to the wall and you are almost done!!

Just add the shelves (before the doors, it’s a million times easier!!) Follow IKEA’s instructions for the door install (it’s super easy) and you are done!!

I want to do this in every room of my entire life. The total cost for our wall of built-ins was just over $900. Not the cheapest thing on the planet, but incredibly less than customs!

Any questions? Leave them below and I’ll update the post with answers! Check out the rest of the projects in the makeover below!

Kid-Friendly Office











The post Floor To Ceiling Built In Bookcases- The ULTIMATE IKEA Billy Bookcase Hack appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Mandi <![CDATA[Annual Family Christmas Picture 2019: Spreading Christmas Smear]]> 2019-12-26T23:24:40Z 2019-12-26T23:13:18Z Everyone has favorite family Christmas traditions right? Some people reenact the nativity, some go caroling, some have a special Christmas Eve dinner. Us? We dress up in wildly inappropriate clothing and take family pictures! Oh yes, it’s time to share

The post Annual Family Christmas Picture 2019: Spreading Christmas Smear appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Everyone has favorite family Christmas traditions right? Some people reenact the nativity, some go caroling, some have a special Christmas Eve dinner.


We dress up in wildly inappropriate clothing and take family pictures! Oh yes, it’s time to share our 2019 Family Christmas Picture!! This year we’re taking it to the rink with our Roller Derby themed photo!

I am SO BUMMED that this picture is out of focus but it’s just too funny to not share!


We love you guys so much and are so grateful for your support and encouragement this year!!

Check out the last 9 years of hilarious Christmas photos below!!

2010: OG White Trash

2011: White Trash Glam

2012: You’ll Shoot Your Eye Out! (A Christmas Story)

2013: How The Grinch Stole Christmas!

2014: Flashback To 1976

2015: North Pole Bookings

2016: Holly Jolly Misfits (Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer)

2017: Have a Very (Geri)atric Christmas

2018: Rock You Like A Snowglobe (80’s Hair Band)

2019: Spreading Christmas Smear

The post Annual Family Christmas Picture 2019: Spreading Christmas Smear appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Mandi <![CDATA[30 Minute DIY Peg Rail + Picture Ledge]]> 2019-12-04T22:19:34Z 2019-12-04T21:15:43Z One of my favorite elements of the Clifford’s Kid Friendly Office is the wall to wall peg rail + picture ledge! I have had so many questions about it and I am THRILLED to tell you that even the most

The post 30 Minute DIY Peg Rail + Picture Ledge appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

One of my favorite elements of the Clifford’s Kid Friendly Office is the wall to wall peg rail + picture ledge! I have had so many questions about it and I am THRILLED to tell you that even the most beginner DIYer can tackle this this project! Let’s get into the how-to so you can add this to your home!

We’re following this simple tutorial that I shared last year, the only difference is that we’re adding pegs!

Supplies you’ll need:

(1) 3.5″ Board cut to desired length

(1) 6.25″ board cut to desired length (same length as the 3.5″ board)

1″ wooden dowels cut to 5.25″

Wood Glue

Wood Screws

Painters Tape

Tools you’ll need:


1″ Forstner Drill Bit

1/16″ drill bit

Miter Saw

Step 1: Cut your wood to length

This is the most creative part of the whole build, you get to decide how long your shelf is going to be! The one in the Clifford’s house is 11′ long!! Really the sky is the limit!

Step 2: Mark the center of the the 3.5″ board

We like using painters tape for this, it’s easy to remove and makes it so that you dont have to mark up your shelf. 

Step 3: Decide on your peg spacing

Easily spacing your pegs is simple, first you have to decide how many pegs you want. Then you’ll take the length measurement and divide it by the number of spaces between pegs. Not the number of pegs. The spaces are almost always one number larger than the number of pegs. For example, our shelf is 24.5″ long. Meaning 24.5 (length) /4 (spaces)= 6.125. Each peg spot will be marked at 6.125″

Step 4: Drilling the peg holes

Using a Forstner drill bit (this set on Amazon is great!) drill a 1″ hole every spot that you marked with a peg. Remember to keep your drill straight! You dont need to drill all the way through your wood, just deep enough that the peg can fit tightly. 

Step 5: Drilling pilot holes

One of the biggest mistakes people make when they’re building is that they dont drill pilot holes. A pilot hole is made when you take a small drill bit and pre-drill the path that the screw will take. It makes all the difference in the world and is an absolute must!!

Line your shelf up the way it will be when it’s assembled. Hold it tightly (or use clamps) while you drill from the top of the shelf down into the back.

Step 6: Glue and Screw

Now that you’ve drilled the pilot holes, it’s time to assemble! Apply a bead of wood glue to the spot where the wood will be joined together.

Using a 1 1/4″ wood screw (we LOVE these ones from GRK for projects like this!)

Wipe off the excess wood glue and your shelf is done!!

Step 7: Peg Time!

All that’s left on this quick build is to set the pegs! Cut your 1″ dowel to 5.25″

Do a dry run to make sure that they fit snuggly in your holes. If everything looks good, put some glue inside and set the pegs! 

THAT IS IT! This whole project will take you less than 30 minutes! I expect you to send me pictures when you’ve got them hung!

Speaking of hanging, when we do projects like this, we’ve found time and time again that the easiest and least damaging way to hang shelves like this is to use finishing nails and nail directly through the face of the shelf into the wall. Small holes are easy to cover with a little bit of wood filler, and your shelf wont budge. When it’s time to take it off, rock it gently back and forth to loosen the nail and pull it off.

Beginner DIY Peg Rail + Photo Ledge

Kid-Friendly Office


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