We are solving a little design dilemma today folks. Does anyone have areas in their house that need a uniquely sized rug (not your standard 3×5 or 5×7)? In my house, these places always seem to be low traffic areas and the rug is really just for looks and to add to the design. (If you have this prob, you might want to check out this tutorial too!)

Dun dun dun duuuuuuunnnn! Insert a Floor Cloth. A floor cloth is basically a reinforced piece of fabric that is sturdy and looks so great!

To make this project you will need:

Heavy Woven Fabric (I found this at Joann’s of all places!)
Wonder Under Fusible Webbing (also available at Joann’s)
Drop Cloth

Start cutting your fabric to the size you are itching for, add 1 1/2-2” to that measurement. Next you are going to iron a 3/4-1” fold into the raw edges of your fabric. Because I loved the little fringies on the ends of mine I only did it on the sides, but you can do it on all 4 of you need to!

Position your fusible webbing on the back of your fabric (paper side up)

Iron on the paper side (don’t use steam! Just heat and pressure).

Wait until the fabric is completely cooled down before you peel off the paper.

Notice how the webbing is also on the fold that I ironed. You don’t want to miss that part!

Now iron your drop cloth right side down onto your fabric/webbing combo. We are doing it right side down so that the thick edge doesn’t leave a big gap between the 2 materials.

All finished!!

While it isn’t heavy duty rug weight,  the floor cloth is still really substantial. I love that you can throw it in the washing machine if it gets spilled on and I LOVE that it is so inexpensive!

Check out the other projects in this series here!

The post No Sew DIY Floor Cloth appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

One of my favorite projects in Dylan’s Bedroom is her headboard. The original plan was to use the head and footboard that we were using before (because its fantastic). The problem was, that against the hexagon wall it made your eyes start convulsing because there was just SO MUCH going on. I needed to put something solid against the wall so the fighting was calmed.

I found this amazing giant picture frame at the DI (Utah’s version of Goodwill) for $15.00. To be honest I bought it with every intention of selling it at the Hoard Sale. But then my bff Brooke pointed out that it is the exact width of a twin size bed (don’t you love friends that can connect the dots in your mind?!)  So this thrifted frame became the base for her headboard.

Living in Southern Utah has its advantages (its GORGEOUS here!) and its disadvantages (there is NO WHERE to buy fabric.)  So when I spotted this knobby woven pea green upholstery fabric at one of my favorite consignment stores I was ALL over it.

To make an upholstered framed headboard you will need:

A frame

1/2” piece of plywood or MDF cut to 1” larger  than the dimensions of inside trim of your frame. (If your frame is 35×44” your board should be cut to 36×45”) FYI you should buy your wood at Lowes, they have a bigger variety of precut options that you can trim down, so you wont need to buy a huge 4×8 sheet)

Egg carton foam. You can find this at Target or Walmart for $10-15

Batting

A stapler. A pneumatic one is preferable because it makes things SO MUCH easier. So. Much.

Button making kit (around $10 at Joanns. This includes the buttons too!)

If you are going to be repainting your frame you will want to do that before you upholster. I decided to change mine after it was already upholstered (remember this small detail) and I had to be super careful to not ruin my fabric with paint.

Upholstery is a 2 person job, so make your best friend some Swig Sugar Cookies and make a morning of it!

Start by laying your fabric face down on the floor, make sure there are no wrinkles in it! Next we are going to make an upholstery sandwich. So you have your fabric face down, next up is your batting, then your foam (if you are using egg carton foam make sure that the bumpy side is against the wood. (which is your last layer.)

Make sure you have enough fabric to wrap around and staple to the back. Also if you are using thinner foam (like I did) leave a little bit of excess foam that you can wrap around too. If you are using thicker dense foam you will need to cut it to the exact size of your board.

Start on one side and fold over and staple your fabric. Start in the middle and work your way out. Leave about 4 inches of unstapled space from the end of your board so you have fabric to work with when you do your corners.

Trim your fabric/foam/batting to the correct length. (I always do this after the first side is stapled down…one time of cutting it too short is enough for me.)

Next you are going to do the same thing to the OPPOSITE side of your headboard. This is where it becomes a 2 person job, one to pull the fabric tightly and one to staple. When you are pulling the fabric use 2 hands or else you will get places that are pulled tighter than others,  and that is just not a good look. (Remember to start in the middle!!)

Once you have gotten to this point it is time to do the dreaded corners. To quote my girl Brooke its just like wrapping a present.

Follow those steps for each corner. When you are finished your headboard should look like this:

Now you are going to do the same process of stapling one side and then the opposite. Make sure you pull your fabric SUPER TIGHT. This is what makes it look professional.

To finish off your corners fold your fabric in a straight line and staple along the edge.

You have a few options for attaching the frame to your upholstered board. You can use brackets,  you can nail through the board into the frame,  or you can nail through the frame into the board (which is what we did.)

The nails that we used are finishing nails that don’t really have a head so they left a very small hole. If you don’t have access to a nail gun I would nail it from the back.

Once your frame is attached its time to decide on the button placement. I wanted something that had a shallow mid century tuft (which is why we used thin foam and did not pre-tuft)  if you want deep button or diamond tufts your process is going to be a little different. Check out Brooke’s diamond tufting tutorial here.

Like the upholstery ninja that she is Brooke whipped out this piece of backing that has a grid on it. I have no idea of the actual name (if you know please leave it in the comments and I will love you forever!)

We marked where we wanted the tufts on the grid and then lined it up and marked on the headboard where they needed to be. This was 100x easier than measuring and leveling and measuring again.

Staple each mark and voila! Tufting!!

Once you have made your buttons (just follow the template and directions on the package, they explain it better than I can!) hot glue them over your tufting.

I hung this on Dylan’s wall with a Hangman. Its basically a big metal French cleat that can hold 200 lbs. I love them and have used them here and here and here to hang headboards.

Make sure to check out the other projects in Dylan’s Dream Room for lots of kid friendly ideas!!

The post Tufted Picture Frame Headboard DIY appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

What do you do when you find an incredible tufted headboard on Craigslist that is bright bad velvet valentine chocolate box red and you want it to be white? Well, you obviously can reupholster it (if you are up for that task) or you can paint the fabric!

The problem with painting fabric is that well, you are painting on fabric. The whole point of having fabric on something is to make it nice and soft, otherwise we would upholster everything with blue tarps. Did you know that you can paint fabric so that it is still soft-ish? Its true! My girls Jilly and Mia are pros at this one.

This is what Kelsey’s headboard looked like on the Craigslist ad:

We had no idea that in real life it looked like this:

(no that picture was not color boosted.)

We scored this baby for $120 from a nice guy named Ingo. He even helped us load it into our car (and  somewhat willingly posed for pictures)

So we found our headboard. Now it was time to start on the makeover.

You will need:

Latex paint in the color of your choice

Textile Medium (can be purchased at any craft store)

Spray Bottle with Water

High Quality Brushes

Start by getting your piece ready to paint. We cut the legs off and vacuumed it to remove as much dust and dirt as possible.

Then lay it out flat.

Ok ready for this? Its time to mix your paint. This is where people get nervous.

This is the fabric medium that we used:

For your first layer you want to use 1 part fabric medium to 1 part latex paint. Mix it really well and then add .5 parts water. (For example you would mix 1 cup of paint, 1 cup of Fabric Medium and 1/2 cup of water.)

You want your paint mixture to be fairly thin (thick enough to coat the back of a spoon) (also did you notice I used foodie lingo? I don’t cook so this is HUGE.)

Use your spray bottle to dampen the fabric. For the first layer you want it fairly wet (not wet enough to  squish water when you push on it, but wet enough that if you touch it it will leave water on your hand.)

Then start painting. Make sure your brush strokes go with the grain of the fabric (or in the case of our velvet we made sure that it was laying the same way.)

After your first coat is completely dry lightly sand it with 220 grit sand paper. This is VERY important if you are using fabric that has a longer nap like Velvet.

Once your first coat is dry light mist your piece again with your spray bottle (I found it works best if you do it in sections) and paint on your paint mixture (still foodie thin)

Once your second layer is dry lightly sand it. Also you will most likely be needing more paint. Mix 1 part paint, 1 part textile medium,  1/4 part water for the remaining layers.

Spritz your piece again so that its slightly damp and go to town.

This is what our headboard looked like after 3 coats…white over flaming red is a long process choice…

And 5 coats…

And 6 coats…

And 8 coats…

Yes, it took 8 coats of spritzing, painting, drying and sanding to get this puppy painted. It is no where near as stiff as it would be had we just painted it without the whole process. It feels like a heavy duty outdoor canvas fabric and is great for a headboard.

Make sure you check out Jilly and Mia’s post about painted fabric  here and here (it wasn’t as high contrast and the fabric was much thinner. They turned out great!)

Have you ever painted fabric? What is your favorite tip?

Love Your Guts, Mandi

The post Epic Room Makeover Tufted Headboard Tutorial: How To Paint Fabric appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

I love quick and easy projects (goodness know I don’t do that kind nearly enough.)

This post is all about embracing your inner artist.

Painting on fabric is nothing new, in fact I have done it quite a few times and I am sure you can find thousands of pins with tips and tricks. The problem that comes up again and again is that the paint is stiff. Even with fabric paint (which is significantly less stiff) the paint still sits on the surface of your fabric.

But never fear, Decoart is here!

They just launched a brand new product called Ink Effects and it is completely different from any other fabric paint I have ever used.

The process is totally different too.

Start by painting your design on a piece of white printer paper. The thicker your paint the more vivid the color will be.

Let your painting dry for 45 minutes.

Once it is dry put it face down on your fabric and iron it on.

Ink effects works MUCH better with synthetic fabric like Polyester  than it does on Cotton. The pigment is absorbed better so the color is deeper.

After you have ironed your design (the longer you apply heat the deeper the color) peel back your paper and enjoy!

I love how bright these little circles are in the sea of white.

Love  Your  Guts,  Mandi

The post Venn Diagram Pillow appeared first on Vintage Revivals.