Its Monday! Do you know what that means?! Another episode of Fearless DIY is up on The Design Network!!

This week I’m tackling a project that maybe doesn’t seem so fearless…painting a rug. But sometimes its not so much about the type of projects as it is just running at it with wreckless abandon.

You can check out the episode here!

Fun fact, we filmed this episode on my birthday and the mystery head helping me hold the rug up at the end is my sister Amy! She drove up and surprised me, it was the best birthday present ever (along with the 5 lb. bag of cinnamon bears that she brought with her.)

Update!! You guys I am such a space case. I forgot to link to the rug!! Its from IKEA (you can find it here!) its called Nipprig (I bet you’ll never forget that name…)

The post Fearless DIY: Painted Rug appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

There are a few tips that you will hear when it comes to thrifting furniture. 1. Check to make sure its sturdy. 2. Give it the smell test. 3. Always buy real wood.

Well guess what? As great and fine as those are sometimes that isn’t an option…especially when it comes to #3 on the list. Buying real wood. If you are in love with vintage furniture the chances are great that you will come across a piece or 99 made from laminate. Chances are that parts of your piece may be real wood, while other parts (like the top) are laminate. Its just the way things are. So does that mean that you should pass up your dream piece because its not real wood?

HECK NO.

Painting laminate is a totally doable DIY. You just have to know what the right products are for the job. (This is where I come in.)

I have tried every technique that pinterest can offer and I am so excited to tell you about the fail proof way to paint laminate.

One of the most popular tutorials on Vintage Revivals is this how to paint furniture post. I 1000% recommend using Pro Classic if you can. The only downside is that Pro-Classic doesn’t come in a deep base so if you want a darker color then you are sort of out of luck.

BUT. For National Painting Week I thought it would be perfect to kill 2 birds with one stone and show you the best way to paint laminate and what type of deep base paint I use to do it!

The color is a vibrant rich green called Arugula.

Ok so this is where I started.

Before I was able to do anything to this cute guy I needed to clean off this space age duct tape that was stuck to it. You guys, this is the kind of stuff that will take off your fingerprints…from your fingers…permanently. Goo Gone and other adhesive removers didn’t work so I pulled out my favorite paint stripper and gave it a good dousing.

Thankfully I was able to scrape the majority of the adhesive off after using that.

The first step to painting laminate is to give it a nice little sanding. Laminate typically has a hard shiny finish that makes it scratch resistant and durable. If you don’t give it a little texture then the paint and primer have nothing to stick to and will easily peel off. I used 150 grit sand paper on this part. You can see in the picture below that I didn’t sand off the laminate, just the surface of it.

Once everything is sanded, wipe it down with a damp rag to make sure that all of the dust is out of your life. If you don’t do this then you will have a situation on your hands.

Ok are you ready to have your life change? The secret to a durable long lasting finish on laminate is the primer that you use, specifically Sherwin-Williams Multi Purpose Primer. It is a bonding primer that basically sticks to anything and everything that you could ever want it to.

Use a Mohair roller to apply 2 thin coats to your piece (make sure that they are fully dry in between.)

Once they have had a few hours to completely dry, give it a light sanding with 220 grit sand paper.

Then wipe it down completely to get rid of any dust.

If you are using a color that can be mixed with a light or medium base, go with Pro-Classic. If you are using a color that needs a deep base you’ll want to use Sherwin-Williams All Surface Latex Enamel.

The Latex Enamel doesn’t lay down quite as easily as the Pro-Classic, to combat that we are using a dry time extender. This gives your paint more time to relax and level out before it dries, giving you a smoother finish.

Latex Enamel is amazing for its durability and has such a great finish.

I could not be happier with how this little guy turned out!

Now for the REALLY fun part, there are a whole slew of bloggers sharing project ideas and paint palettes for National Painting Week, you will for sure want to be checking those out here.

The post How To Paint A Laminate Dresser appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

You guys. There are many cool things that come with blogging territory, but one of the coolest has got to be this moment. When my friends at Sherwin-Williams asked if I would be interested in announcing their Color of the Year for 2015 it was one of those look around the room just to make sure they were talking to the right person moments! Man, they are the best.

When I learned what the color was, I was a little surprised. I was expecting something totally different like Rust or Olive or a deep grayish blue. But I actually LOVE the color and quickly warmed up to the idea of doing something different with it.

Want to know what it is?!

The Sherwin-Williams 2015 color of the year is Coral Reef!!

Coral Reef is such a versatile color. It goes with everything under the sun! Navy? Check. Cantaloupe? Check. Spearmint Green? Check. Blush Pink? Check Check Check!!

Acid Yellow? Obviously!! (No mint and chevron pairings here my friends!)

Lately I have been craving warm colors (Nugget I am looking at you). They just bring so much life into a space. Coral Reef is pretty much the queen of that little situation. I just haaad to come up with a way to show how current and wonderful it is. This basic wall treatment has been kicking around the ol’ creativity center for a bit. Painting an entire accent wall is great, but this project is simple and special. The conclusion is that a thick vertical stripe is absolutely stunning. Paired with Coral Reef it just cant be stopped.

So here is how to recreate this project.

Start by painting your wall white. I use High Hide white (if your local Sherwin-Williams doesn’t know what that is it is an extra white base with 3 oz of white pigment added. It is my favorite white and I use it EVERYWHERE.)

Using a level, draw 2 vertical lines 2.5 feet apart. Then using painter’s tape,  tape on the outside of the lines.

The trick to getting perfect paint lines EVERY TIME is to bleed your wall color before you paint your accent color. That way, the wall color fills the grooves and valleys in your wall texture instead of the accent color. To do this just paint along the edge of your tape line.

When your paint is dry, it is finally time to put the Coral Reef up!!

It is crazy how painting a stripe like this makes the ceiling look like it is miles away, and who doesn’t want taller ceilings?! Its like saying you don’t want to have a lifetime supply of Nutella. Or a cape for the man in your life after seeing Taylor Swift’s Blank Space video. Its just not a thing.

I love how this wall turned out. It adds just the perfect amount of color without overtaking your life. And I am SO excited to see all of the places that Coral Reef is going to pop up!!

So what do you think? Are you excited about their pick?

*I teamed up with my favorite paint company in all the land (Sherwin-Williams) to collaborate on this project. All opinions are my own!

The post Sherwin-Williams 2015 Color of The Year Is… appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Dudes! We are overhauling a 1972 Bell Travel Trailer! Follow the entire series from the beginning here!   Huge thanks to 3M DIY for teaming up with us on this project!

Oh cabinets. You tricky little suckers, you. The original cabinets in The Nugget were simple. Some sort of bullet proof laminated particle board (no joke, this stuff is tough!) with black hammered outside hinges and a black hammered handle.

In order to keep costs down we decided that reusing them would be the best option.

After removing them from the trailer and removing the hardware, I used 3M Patch plus primer to fill the holes. This stuff is my fave!

When it was completely dry I sanded the front and backs of the doors. When you are painting over laminate using a 150 grit sandpaper like 3M Advanced Abrasives is an absolute necessity. I needed to give the paint something to stick to.

So go with me on this, sometimes we like to overcomplicate things, right!? When I was trying to decide the best painting route I had all of these paint options and techniques and it was just turning into such a process. What it finally boiled down to was durability and the finish. Guess what? Spray paint is AWESOME for both. No paint lines, no major clean up, and when you let if cure for the proper time period it is totally durable. I used Rust-O-leum 2x in White Satin and it matched my wall paint perfectly. (When does that ever happen? It was meant to be!!)

Please note the color difference between the backs of the cabinets, and the front (the 4th one down on the left) There was some major sun fading happening.

Trimming out the doors with wood proved to be a little more complicated. Finding wood that is 1/2” thick at a low price is pretty impossible, so we bought 1×2”s and ripped them in half on the table saw.

Then we measured and mitered the corners. Just a tip, when you are measuring for a 45 degree angle remember that you are measuring for the longest edge!

We attached the wood to the cabinet fronts with a staple gun, and then patched and sanded the holes again. Instead of spray painting the entire back side,  I used a little spray paint touch up trick. Spray a good-ish amount of paint into a disposable container. Then use a synthetic brush to touch up your spots.

It was at this point that I was having stress that everything was so blah. After playing around with a few ideas we finally decided that an off set vertical piece was just the detail that the cabinets needed.

I attached these pieces with glue and used ScotchBlue Painter’s Tape to hold it on for the recommended cure time.

While they were curing I put on the freaking amazing hardware.

I am proud to be a 3M- sponsored blogger, and, as part of my responsibilities, I get the opportunity to evaluate products from 3M DIY. Opinions are my own and additional product used in the project were selected by me.

The post The Nugget: Refinishing Cabinetry appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Dudes! We are overhauling a 1972 Bell Travel Trailer! Follow the entire series from the beginning here!

One word.

Finally.

You would think that, you know, rebuilding the entire front and back ends of our little vintage trailer would cause some major satisfaction. But anyone who has ever done a room makeover knows that the real pat on the back moment comes after the paint.

I could not wait to start painting.

And what a world of difference! (Taking out the bunk didn’t hurt…)

Notice the the darker tone along the top of the wall, along the ceiling? One thing that happened that I didn’t anticipate was bleed through.

Where the wood paneling had a little bit of water damage, even though it had been sanded, there was a yellowish color that seeped through after the paint was dry.

So out came my trusty can of Kilz Primer (it has a stain blocker in it!)

I sprayed it everywhere that had potential water damage. Around the corners and windows, along the seams in the ceiling, even around the ice block fridge.

And it worked fantastically!

(Sometimes this thing feels like Mary Poppins bag with the sheer amount of crap that we can fit inside.)

At this point I was feeling mighty grateful for the prep work that I had done.

One little reminder, take into account your wall texture when choosing a paint roller. The walls in the Nugs are smooth with a little bit of faux wood grain. Using a roller that is for a semi smooth surface is going to leave more texture than we want. The rollers that I used were Wooster 3/8” High Density (they are the white fluffy ones). It is also CRUCIAL that you use a good paint brush for edging. Why spend all of the time painting, and redoing the countertops, only to have the spot they meet at have major paint brush texture?

In March when I went to the Home Depot Manager’s meeting, they were previewing the new Behr Interior Marquee line. It still isn’t sold in every Home Depot (they are working on it!) so I was really excited when Behr said they would send me a few gallons to try. I always want to give you guys the best info, so constantly trying new things is really important to me. Overall I was extremely impressed with the quality. The paint has a much thicker consistency than regular Behr Paint+Primer, which I really liked. I am really looking forward to trying it in a regular interior setting so that I can see how it performs there. I can say that I have had to wipe the walls down multiple times because of dust and dirt and greasy handprints and it comes clean like a breeze.

So now that I have a giant blank white space, the real fun can begin…stay tuned!

The post The Nugget: Let’s Get Painting Folks appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

See my How To Paint Furniture Guide here! It’s full of updated information!! Painting furniture has long been one of my favorite pastimes. It is always amazing to me how a little love can totally change a piece from horrifying to awe inspiring. My go to technique has always been spray painting because every time I tried to paint with normal paint it was a HORRIBLE experience. Now, I know that there are people that swear by good brushes, foam rollers, and Floetrol and I am sure that they work for some…but I have never been able to master the paint from a can technique…until now.

First lets chat about the 3 most common problems when it comes to painting.

1. Brush Strokes.  Also the acronym for brush strokes is BS. Just putting that out there. Brush strokes happen when your paint dries before it has a chance to level. The stiffer (I am just going to say it, and crappier) your brush the worse it is going to look. Chip brushes are literally your worst nightmare when painting furniture. But even with expensive brushes I have never been able to paint something brush stroke free.

2. Flashing.  Flashing is unevenness in a paint finish sheen. It happens for a few reasons. If you are using cheap paint,  especially cheap paint that has a high sheen, trying to get too much paint out of a roller,  not leaving a wet edge,  and rolling all willy nilly. Flashing is extremely noticeable when light reflects off of a piece. White foam rollers are like a shifty teenager in a trench coat on the sidelines of the homecoming football game. They are perfectly poised to ruin your crowning moment. Also foam rollers=light texture. Not enough to start over but FOR SURE enough to make you want to kick the dresser every time you walk by it.

3. Stickiness After Drying.  Have you guys ever been in contact with a piece of furniture that never fully cured? It is eternally sticky to the touch. This happened once to a piece that was in my Mother In Law’s house. It was a four poster bed that was painted high gloss black and it was unusable because it was so sticky. This can happen for a few reasons,  your paint could be crappy quality, there wasn’t adequate dry time between layers. It seems like the higher the sheen, the more you risk this being a factor. Plain and simple, latex wall paint is not ideal for furniture.

So do you want to know what the secret combo is for a perfect paint job?

Sherwin Williams Pro Classic and a Mohair Roller. I kid you not, you will never go back once you have tried this combo. (See this post for updated paint and roller info!)

Start by prepping you piece with a light sanding and a good cleaning. (By light sanding i mean the way you would wipe down a wall)

Load your roller.

This is the most important part so listen and listen good. Roll it on with only a few passes,  I am talking 3. Don’t worry so much about coverage,  you can do more than one coat. Just make sure that there aren’t any globby areas.

Now put your roller down and walk away. When the paint starts to dry and you mess with it, it is just a recipe for disaster and will always look worse when you are done.

And then you will hate yourself. So just trust.

This is a freshly rolled drawer vs. one that has had time to dry,  can you see how much the paint relaxes and evens out?

I have never had something work so well time and time again. You guys, this is the real deal.

My only request? Don’t hug me too tight when you see me next. I love my guts intact.

The post 3 Frustrating Furniture Painting Problems Solved With One Tip. appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

I dont know if it was because I had just woken up, but I found this in my instagram feed this morning and thought it was extremely giggle worthy. (thanks for sharing Scout and Nimble!)

Now. If that didnt wake you up,  I bet this will:

Wowza right?! I didnt even know that they made spray paint in those colors.

For the entire length of the Macie’s Bedroom makeover I was  on a desk hunt. Finding something small and shallow and cute and not outrageously prices turned out to be quite the task. But in the 11th hour, this little ray of sunshine burst through the dreary clouds and right into my heart.

I was really interested in finding out what color it was originally (sometimes I am a bit of a furniture hippy) so instead of initially painting over it I decided to strip it.

Citristrip is my product of choice. It works well, and if you accidentally get some on your skin it doesnt feel like the fires of Hades are coming after you. The original finish was a light grayish blue (you can see it peeking out of the paint below). It wasnt what I was hoping for (a really light green) so I decided to paint it.

Painting metal is really simple, in fact most spray paints are formulated to work with metal. The one difference that I have found is that you have to let it cure for a lot longer than you let wood cure. If you move it too soon the paint can just scratch right off. That is not the funnest thing.

I painted the back with Krylon Copper Metallic (Michaels is the only place that I can find it in St. George) and the sides with Krylon Flat White.

The post Retro Desk Overhaul appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Remember when I told you guys that this Wicker Headboard was the starting inspiration for my entire master bedroom makeover and most of you were a little scared? Its ok,  you weren’t the only one.

Today I am putting your wondering mind at ease with the reveal. Oh and totally setting a new trend. NBD. Jump on board now my friends, because these puppies are hard enough to get when everyone still thinks they are ug.

I feel like this post should start out with 2 things.

1. DUN DUN DUN DUN DUN DUN DUUUUUUUUN!

And 2. Finally.

I loved using colors from the same family so much in Dylan’s room that I had to give it a shot in my bedroom too. Luckily my boyfriend Sherwin Williams has direct access to my brain waves and tracking down the perfect Spearmint green was simple. (It is Eco Green BTW,  and make sure you buy a sample pot because you wont need much!)

I love when you can take something that people give a sideways glance at and make it a show stopper. This is why I will forever be a thrift store addict. Its just so gratifying.

Paint dipping or color blocking (however you choose to phrase it) is a VERY simple technique with a ton of impact. If you are on the fence about painting a piece of furniture,  maybe start here,  it will give you a pop of color without having to commit to the entire thing.

If the piece is small enough you can actually pick it up and dip it in paint. If it is HUGE like my headboard?

Probably not the best idea.

So here is the cheater way to get the look without spending $5000 on a zillion gallons of paint to fill your bathtub.

Start by taping off where your paint line will end. I 100% recommend ScotchBlue Painter’s Tape for any taping needs,  its my favie.

When you are painting something like Wicker, with all of its dips and grooves, you are not going to get a perfect paint line,  your just not. But it is ok, because all of those dips and grooves are going to hide it. Press your ScotchBlue into all of the spots that you can reach. If you are taping off a flat surface,  check out this post for my secret for PERFECT paint lines (its sort of life changing.)

As you are painting (especially on the paint line) start with your brush on the tape and brush away from it. If you are brushing toward the tape then you are likely shoving paint into all of the grooves that we are trying to avoid.

Once my paint was dry enough, I flipped the headboard over and painted the backside.

Remove your tape and grin at the fact that you are amazing.

To joint the 2 headboards together I used clear fishing line. A few readers gave the suggestion of binding them together with wicker strips. If I was planning on repainting the whole headboard, I TOTALLY would have done that,  but because I was not planning on repainting the white, I McGyvered it a little.

So now that it is starting to come together a little bit more are you a believer? Or are you still on the fence (don’t worry, by the end of it the fence will be a distant memory…)

Did you notice the DIY Leather Pillows and Wood Shim Stamped Curtains?

If you are in dire need of other inspiring projects there is a HUGE Ready, Set, Paint Blog Hop going on with all of your favorite DIYers, so make sure you check their goods out…you know what I mean.

Centsational Girl – Textured Panel Dresser Makeover

Thrifty and Chic Framed Stencil Wall

The Design Confidential DIY Concrete Color Block Painted Tables

Sand & Sisal Faux Etched Glass

The Girl Creative Summer Chalkboard

PB & J Stories Dipped Effect Outdoor Bench and Front Patio Makeover

In My Own Style How to Paint Outdoor Furniture

Making this Home Embellish with a Paint Border

Rustic Bench Gets Modern Moroccan-Inspired Makeover

DIY Game Table

Fun with Fireworks

Charles & Hudson – Wood Block Planter

Love of Family and Home – DIY Striped Curtain

LollyJane – Mailbox Makeover

Nesting Place – Painting with Chalk

Thistlewood Farms: How to Paint Stripes

Live Laugh Rowe: DIY Drop Cloth Table Runner

SawdustGirl – Spray-Painted-Striped Lemonade Stand Canopy

Make It: Painted Horseshoes

DIY Pet Food Station

This post was brought to you in partnership with The Home Depot and ScotchBlue Painter’s Tape.

The post Spearmint Color Blocked Vintage Wicker Headboard appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

Happy Monday my friends! You may or may not know that about a year and 1/2 ago I posted a really through tutorial for painting concrete/cement. Ivie’s floor was my first experience and its held up really well, so well in fact, that I decided to rip the carpet out of Dylan’s room and paint her floor too.

So why another tutorial? Well, I’ve learned a few things along the way that I would love for you to know to (in case you are planning on tackling your own concrete painting project!)

Carpet Removal

First up is carpet removal. Not the funnest job in the world, that is for sure. Dyl’s room is preeeeetty small so it wasn’t a horribly hard job (but if you need a few more tips on that, pop over and check out this post on YHL.)

Once your carpet and pad are out its time to remove the tack strips. (Those are the pieces of wood along the edge of your carpet that hold it in place.)  You can use a myriad of tools for this from a chisel, to a hammer, to a screw driver. We used floor scrapers to remove them (you can see both of them in the picture above)  The one on the left is a little finer and you have a little more control, and the one on the right is sort of like the bulldozer of floor scrapers and destroys everything in its path. Basically you are using them to pry up the tack strips. Make sure when you pick them up you are wearing gloves, those suckers are sharp.

Remove Adhesive

Now you have the fun job of getting off all of the carpet glue. And actually the proper spelling of that would be Carpet Human Fly Trap GAAA-LOOOOOOE. Our carpet was laid when we moved into our house 4 years ago and the glue was still VERY sticky. I don’t know at what point it looses its tack and becomes concrete like but I have heard that does happen….

In my first post I talked about dousing it with  Lacquer Thinner and letting it sit and then dousing it again and scraping it off with a plastic scraper. This is what I have learned since then,  if you pour a fair amount of Lacquer Thinner on and then cover it with a plastic garbage bag for 10 minutes the glue comes RIGHT off. Very little scraping involved. I took a few garbage bags and cut them down one side and the bottom so that they could cover a larger area.

Fill Holes

If you previously had carpet, then you are going to have lots of cute little holes along your baseboard that will need to be filled before you can paint. Mix up a batch of Quickcrete and fill your holes (its ok if you overfill them a little) and let it cure overnight.

Sand Baby Sand

The last prep step is to sand your heart out. Use a pole sander (you can buy them for around $6.00 at Sherwin Williams) and 80 Grit Sand Paper to rough up the entire surface of the floor. Sand the entire floor one direction, then sweep it up. Then sand it in the opposite direction, then sweep it up. Then sand one MORE time and this time when you sweep you want to sweep, vacuum, sweep, vacuum. Until you are SURE there is no dust left. (If you get it wet at this point you will have to wait 24 hours for it to fully dry, so don’t do that)  Just sweep and vacuum like your floor’s life depends on it…because it does. Take special care to sand along the edges where you filled the tack strip holes and they should blend right in.

Now comes the fun part.

Paint

Painting a floor is hands down the easiest thing on the planet. In fact I would rather paint 5000 floors than 1 ceiling. You don’t even need a paint tray!

But you do need good paint. Regular latex paint is NOT for this project. You need something specially designed to withstand the beatings that a floor takes. The paint that I recommend is Sherwin Williams Porch and Floor Enamel. It is AMAZING and has held up SO well in Ivie’s room. It is a water based paint (so no crazy fumes) that is self priming and goes on so smooth. You do not want to get the wrong product when you are doing a project like this (can you imagine?!). You can have it tinted to any color of the rainbow, but personally I love the Extra White Base.

Make sure that you are using a microfiber roller cover that has a 5/16” nap for a really smooth finish. (If you are doing a top coat you will need to buy 2 of them.)

Pour your paint onto the corner furthest away from your door. I usually pour an amount that is the size of a dinner plate. If you have closets in the space you will want to start there.

Roll it the same way that you would roll a wall, in a “W” pattern. Make sure that you are not leaving any gobs behind (yes, gobs is the technical term.)

Also, notice in the picture above that the holes that were filled absorb the paint more than the regular floor. So go over those extra well.

This picture is after 1 coat.

Let coat 1 cure for a few hours. Once it is dry recoat following the same pattern. I didn’t need more than 2 coats on Dylan’s floor, but if you do, wait the appropriate amount of time before you recoat.

Sherwin Williams Porch and Floor Enamel does not require a top coat to seal it. You can leave it just how it is with a Satin finish and be golden as the geese on Willy Wonka.

But.

I LOVE LOVE LOVE having a top coat on because it makes cleaning the floors easier. It makes them shinier (this picture from Ivie’s room is the perfect example!)

If you are putting on a top coat, wait 24 hours before you do it to let your paint cure.

The top coat I recommend is H&C Wet Look Concrete Sealer (you can also buy this at Sherwin Williams). DO NOT use a polyurethane on top of your floor, especially if you have used white paint. You will hate your life when it yellows.

*When I did Ivie’s room I did 2 coats of Sealer and there are a few places where the concrete was not level and it puddled there and has yellowed a little bit. So I would just say to one coat it and avoid that possible problem.

Once your top coat is finished wait at least 24 hours to walk on it and72 hours before you put furniture on it. Deal?

One question I get over and over again about painted concrete is how to clean it. Surprisingly the best method that I have come up with (after trying lots and lots) is dish soap and a washcloth. Yep,  regular old dish soap.

Put a small amount on the tough spot. (Dylan is going through a phase where she writes her name on EVERYTHING.)

Rub it in small circles with a damp washcloth.

Wipe it up with a clean non soapy one.

Do you have any questions about this project? Leave them in the comments and I will answer them there!

This post was written in partnership with Sherwin Williams. All project ideas, opinions and hard work are 100% mine.

The post How To Paint Concrete UPDATED!! (Plus My Secret Cleaning Tip!) appeared first on Vintage Revivals.

This post is all over the place. I am not sure why, but lets just go with it. Consider yourself warned.

When I was sprucing up my patio, I knew I want some kind of funky art. I have been hoarding this Tiki mask for MONTHS. Court was confused and a little, well, nervous, when I told him there was no way on God’s green earth I was selling it at the Hoard Sale. (The actual plan was to paint it and put it in my kitchen, we will see if that ever happens…)

So we have the Tiki mask and the theme of Summer. And for some reason the first thing that I think of when I hear “SUMMER!!!” is Grease. I don’t know why. Its a gift and a treasure, in one John Travolta-Hip Thrusting- Music Filled package.

Here is the internal conversation with Me, Myself, and I (you should know that Myself is the one that thinks through the way readers will react to things. Sometimes Myself is on vacation…like when I write posts like “Craigslist Etiquette is for Suckers” and it makes people feel the need to tell me that I have no morals. But usually she is right here with me.

Me:  Hmmm.. Patio. Decorating. Art. Summer.

I: Don’t forget we have that awesome Tiki Mask

Myself:  Some people commented on FB that the Tiki mask has bad Ju-ju and you shouldn’t put it in your house. Whatever Ju-ju is.

Me:  Well,  maybe we should put it outside.

I:  Maybe it will protect against the feral cats that crap on the lawn? Or the Feral teenagers that keep jacking our stuff.

Myself:  You cant say feral teenagers,  that will anger people. They are children of God, just trying to find their way.

Me:  Focus you two. Sheesh. So we have Tiki. We have summer.

I: Summer lovin,  had me a blast.

Me:  Ohh ohh what if we make it look like the mask is singing?! Such a good idea.

I:  I love that! He could be singing Summer Lovin and have kisses all over his face!

Myself:  Summer Lovin is probably not the best phrase since it promotes teenage sexual behavior, and we already have a wayward teenager issue.

Me:  Dude. No one is going to take it like that.

Myself:  Do you want to end up on a blogger bashing forum? Find something a little bit more appropriate.

I:  How about But, Oh. Those Summer Nights?

Me: Fine with me.

Myself:  It still a little risky, but if people get upset then they need a life. Plus most teenagers nowadays probably haven’t seen Grease. Lets do it.

Now who has said they want to live in my head? Its a bit crowded friends.

Dyl has become the resident watercolor specialist in the Gubler casa. I wish I could take credit for this project but it was 95% her.

I cut the words out with my Silhouette (the font I used is Nova Solid) and stuck them to a scrap piece of 1/8” ply that I had in my garage.

I didn’t want them to be perfectly lined up, so instead of using transfer tape I peeled of each letter and place it individually.

Once I had the letters down I drew a rough circle around them to mark where I wanted the wood painted (you can see it in the picture below) and then I gave Dylan free reign with her watercolors (I know that watercolors are not permanent but it was the loose watery look that I was going for.)

She had so much fun mixing and painting. I love when you get out of the way and give kids permission to let whatever is inside of them to come out.

Then I let Dylan peel of the vinyl. This was probably her favorite part, she was amazed that the letters were still there! I am pretty sure if there was a job just doing this, it would be the most gratifying job in the world.

All dried.

As far as the kissy mask goes, I just free handed lips onto the mask with plain old acrylic craft paint. I did contemplate putting it on my lips and then kissing him but Myself got the better of me.

I hung the board on the house (one of the upsides of Stucco) with small finishing nails in each corner and then hung Mr.. Tiki Man on with a nail. Not a big to do, but it works.

I love that Dylan did this,  I love that it looks so fun, and I love that the Tiki Man is going to scare away all of the feral teenagers. (Sorry Myself, I just had to throw it in there.)

Hope you guys have an amazing Memorial Day!

The post Outdoor Watercolor Tiki Mask Art appeared first on Vintage Revivals.